tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-81992833359983718322024-02-19T03:11:21.917-08:00Caroline GeorgeLady Mountain GuideCaroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-16619719707721169702010-02-10T01:52:00.001-08:002010-02-11T13:11:04.245-08:00Preparation for Norway<div><div>A few climbs in preparation for my dream ice climbing destination: Norway, for First Ascent. Follow us on the <a href="http://blog.firstascent.com/">First Ascent blog</a>!</div><div><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPD70WTOrYHZQ58nvGZCsa18Au1WJvl5y6peYTsSSnjODvRWxf73uYPGWqye1zaXeATSSt2xGWcw4ZNUCmSkBWIVs8bJqNqU8DvbrS1Xs_8kTf0g4b0PkC1ln39VGdw36CGEJGkptv/s400/100111Ouray+0400-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437057762214075506" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Mighty Aphrodite, <a href="http://www.jamesqmartin.com/">James Q Martin</a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjonjy04zuYrAHH4h8b8rk7u9j9lJ0ISuG3HpLBpTc9uc4EKVtmfN9f5JJ60Ws5e7vOg37tEnSShjvEsEpkks9AYaCVvts_vIkHOJ1NyMt-TOOmlwZa9EJwd3wFcwAcxxxoIFFV9UFJ/s1600-h/burr011310-163_2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjonjy04zuYrAHH4h8b8rk7u9j9lJ0ISuG3HpLBpTc9uc4EKVtmfN9f5JJ60Ws5e7vOg37tEnSShjvEsEpkks9AYaCVvts_vIkHOJ1NyMt-TOOmlwZa9EJwd3wFcwAcxxxoIFFV9UFJ/s400/burr011310-163_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437057767205822178" /></a><div style="text-align: left;">Skylight (<a href="http://www.andrewburr.com/">Andrew Burr Photo</a>)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KTJE50OpO_NeoTUXvcOna5EkRMtHVeLL8HMon56oXAn5XopaVLPpLmDa6qK5ubrlNmOhPrF8ct7M2TRYhxO1DhozFA8q024H3GOXSTWjol003LAdtpdVaFkCTNOqF5_Sse5sn1x9/s1600-h/burr011210-217_2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KTJE50OpO_NeoTUXvcOna5EkRMtHVeLL8HMon56oXAn5XopaVLPpLmDa6qK5ubrlNmOhPrF8ct7M2TRYhxO1DhozFA8q024H3GOXSTWjol003LAdtpdVaFkCTNOqF5_Sse5sn1x9/s400/burr011210-217_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436554368451474354" /></a><br /><div><div>Ames Ice Hose in Telluride (<a href="http://www.andrewburr.com/">Andrew Burr Photo</a>)</div></div><div><br /><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiai4TtJ0SW1tVnAAVHE4oFiPEMlu3sdKc3YsHzqNazfoEUyq-jlrwiFXFJ2IMQhSGFORUiU1u4DCduoIyss2DwbthcBXma-JrOCsYsI5rhEIDPAJ8SA3MVB9XkDctakVTAhPbeyo9U/s400/photo-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436554129226054370" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /><div><br /></div><div>With Chad in Ouray: Chad Peele and I had never climbed together, so we figured we would go climb around Ouray on my 1/2 day off between <a href="http://www.chickswithpicks.net/">Chicks with Picks</a>' Complete and the Betty Ice Ball. We made it up one climb - "Rocket something"just outside of Ouray - and then tried to go this amazing pillar I had seen a few days prior with Andrew Burr and Jason Nelson (check out the pictures on the <a href="http://carolinegeorge.blogspot.com/2010/02/andrew-burr-eye-candy.html">blog</a>). Yet, with the spell of warm temps, the creek had unfrozen and when I broke through the verglas and fell up to mid-calves in the cold-issima water, we decided to call it and go grab some lunch instead. Just a half day of climbing was enough to get feel for how we would climb together. Norway is going to be fun!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhduSI4E4OMAnlNS4TY2eXpchybqmOOi91JILBmEB0pr6pIp8nFWsMlVO2zuQsSLR2k-sAiCpb7_R5BL7zHnDODfoj4j5IVZb-yXb0A9qTqDtWZD11TBa3POxxqu_ctuHBlalu2qKK4/s1600-h/DSC_1355.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 268px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhduSI4E4OMAnlNS4TY2eXpchybqmOOi91JILBmEB0pr6pIp8nFWsMlVO2zuQsSLR2k-sAiCpb7_R5BL7zHnDODfoj4j5IVZb-yXb0A9qTqDtWZD11TBa3POxxqu_ctuHBlalu2qKK4/s400/DSC_1355.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436554362970802370" /></a><br /></div><div>Automatic Control Theory, Santaquin Canyon, UT, Photo from hubby Adam George</div><div><br /></div><div>The following pictures are of Frankenchrist, Maple Canyon UT, one of my favorite places to climb in because of the red cobble stones and the color of the ice. Funky ice but fun. Went down there with <a href="http://paragonik.com/blog/">Peter Vintoniv</a> and <a href="http://tommychandler.net/">Tommy Chandler</a>. Enjoy!</div><div></div><div><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8WVve2ZKaE6gU3Ff5tXb1uFQ-VIxwy1JITBRLFzigkJVki7srQdyXhwxhqwSHxuQwlMYH6Ok1iVdr9asbYNTWKB9T2V_m-1yOc3J1H9bf2Fu5UIrAwE-gGxlE6qRqgVWqklBl3uu_/s1600-h/BCTC10_MapleIce_048.jpg"></a></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8WVve2ZKaE6gU3Ff5tXb1uFQ-VIxwy1JITBRLFzigkJVki7srQdyXhwxhqwSHxuQwlMYH6Ok1iVdr9asbYNTWKB9T2V_m-1yOc3J1H9bf2Fu5UIrAwE-gGxlE6qRqgVWqklBl3uu_/s1600-h/BCTC10_MapleIce_048.jpg" style="text-decoration: none;"><img style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 400px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8WVve2ZKaE6gU3Ff5tXb1uFQ-VIxwy1JITBRLFzigkJVki7srQdyXhwxhqwSHxuQwlMYH6Ok1iVdr9asbYNTWKB9T2V_m-1yOc3J1H9bf2Fu5UIrAwE-gGxlE6qRqgVWqklBl3uu_/s400/BCTC10_MapleIce_048.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436554360014164738" /></a><br /></div><div>Frankenchrist, Maple Canyon UT</div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWzvaODf_u3r7m8qPqj05Dt7pgQ9SxV_4bSNXA1xgOAh7E3CRmW-RmB7RosWKuvLvw2qpGoSjvVK6efuEGd4TxTE9Ys2slVRgFOQTXAG7YM1hHpQgdeayQGr8fKlxEekT2m0-3tzED/s1600-h/BCTC10_MapleIce_063.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWzvaODf_u3r7m8qPqj05Dt7pgQ9SxV_4bSNXA1xgOAh7E3CRmW-RmB7RosWKuvLvw2qpGoSjvVK6efuEGd4TxTE9Ys2slVRgFOQTXAG7YM1hHpQgdeayQGr8fKlxEekT2m0-3tzED/s400/BCTC10_MapleIce_063.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436551359119095570" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjV1tKEWnmVFegziUQXNpPz4TDEQq7TFXVekqbvHEuKntJcgQwG591HoPEZSOb7ABo3405KsEB62xC-n_lnVuIrKtG0oYk_PzeLcV8R4elc5GHXMMKqqbKG_TjHy-suaCK073mKZG/s1600-h/BCTC10_MapleIce_024.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjV1tKEWnmVFegziUQXNpPz4TDEQq7TFXVekqbvHEuKntJcgQwG591HoPEZSOb7ABo3405KsEB62xC-n_lnVuIrKtG0oYk_PzeLcV8R4elc5GHXMMKqqbKG_TjHy-suaCK073mKZG/s400/BCTC10_MapleIce_024.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436551353475226578" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrxT-7uQKW2Bj_7VoGHK6m2oyWQPsj2ghn6ntqH8YAhUeYjmB6fwvmZR_vomvC47_lx1dRFzBBVygNq1FFNPHGfFraAhPWwO0NdJ8R8o8WKShIHkZDCnkwuQrRjnTGEikGfSpKvx4F/s1600-h/BCTC10_MapleIce_089.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrxT-7uQKW2Bj_7VoGHK6m2oyWQPsj2ghn6ntqH8YAhUeYjmB6fwvmZR_vomvC47_lx1dRFzBBVygNq1FFNPHGfFraAhPWwO0NdJ8R8o8WKShIHkZDCnkwuQrRjnTGEikGfSpKvx4F/s400/BCTC10_MapleIce_089.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436551343961100338" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeeZ1_FMAAVOzzq6lJeS6fgo3p7ag-jgiGKZbeBEO81Uo9SyB_CKrdwbTPtUc0uYodp7PGugOv87kmC0oL1PVzkPF8uGpdQ5T7Qc6ktPABw29HIJFk4ehhl-ZAJRp_GzPQxUn32x30/s1600-h/BCTC10_MapleIce_041.jpg" style="text-decoration: none;"><div style="text-align: center; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="text-decoration: underline;"><br /></span></div></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj81A-WK9c9G0oL-pwen0eJ_G6nXTJnvFo-ylCxvkVrB-opEYKheLOicFqRvqvbJI5-EYNJaxLPfLfIiqCfoELPZrKcYSjJ_LUoyP3GN3G1yvBb4x6Ic2ZlX3DccA9PxbkeLcOgdppV/s1600-h/BCTC10_MapleIce_041.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj81A-WK9c9G0oL-pwen0eJ_G6nXTJnvFo-ylCxvkVrB-opEYKheLOicFqRvqvbJI5-EYNJaxLPfLfIiqCfoELPZrKcYSjJ_LUoyP3GN3G1yvBb4x6Ic2ZlX3DccA9PxbkeLcOgdppV/s400/BCTC10_MapleIce_041.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436551333085948834" /></a><br /></div></div></div>Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-73868056883868313692010-02-04T08:09:00.001-08:002010-02-04T10:14:04.585-08:00OR Show 2010The Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City takes place each year in January, between the Ouray Ice Festival and Chicks with Picks. This is a great time for me to touch base with my sponsors (<a href="http://www.eddiebauer.com/home.jsp?siteId=2">First Ascent</a>, <a href="http://petzl.com/us">Petzl</a>, <a href="http://www.scarpa.net/">Scarpa,</a> <a href="http://www.julbousa.com/">Julbo</a>) but also to see just about everyone I know in the Outdoor Industry. This year, Adam and I worked for <a href="http://www.brooks-range.com/">Brooks Range Mountaineering.</a> Brooks Range Mountaineering makes tarps, tents, rescue sleds, map reading tools, snow science kits, down jackets and elephant foot type of sleeping bag, ski straps, snow shovels, snow saws, etc. It's a one of a kind company, owned and created by AMGA Alpine Guide Matt Brooks. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvGiP_StnaSMZ77x6T5pSnDHo20XwIe3VUKXNHYLxj42iknx3sUdEEyrYHfhgvXKE6I68Y8d0RVECW5LmXMXq5kJTKl3uQZgzCKKSiQkPnB8_rAmzdq49v4K0BexTOxQPYCQIauQBS/s1600-h/IMG_0307.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvGiP_StnaSMZ77x6T5pSnDHo20XwIe3VUKXNHYLxj42iknx3sUdEEyrYHfhgvXKE6I68Y8d0RVECW5LmXMXq5kJTKl3uQZgzCKKSiQkPnB8_rAmzdq49v4K0BexTOxQPYCQIauQBS/s400/IMG_0307.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434422396858381650" border="0" /></a>The new <a href="http://www.brooks-range.com/StoreBox/trpshl/rocket_tent_a2.htm">Rocket Tent</a>, designed by IFMGA guide <a href="http://www.aspenexpeditions.com/i-Dick-Jackson-35.html">Dick Jackson</a>, drew a lot of attention, because of the cutting edge untearable material it's made out of. The tent is ultralite (1.5lbs) and can be built with trekking poles and a probe.
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<br />It was a lot of fun to work a crew of guides at the booth.
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<br />I got a chance to walk around the show and discover all the new exciting products. Here are a few!
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<br />Scarpa has a whole new line of sport climbing shoes! hard to pick one from the lot. They all are so attractive and cutting edge looking!
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS62ypfHyjywhAAUJc89LB2tIPj0iiyFhsfB7RW3Yx7HTbScUswLIux5WOMmOJFA-hNbx3CIDkuYFDz7kNeyc-eMIOhRFW7uX9N3Z7G4dnfF2c2e7nUHJVdejX33F2lxEVaSb_vf6d/s1600-h/P1000263.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS62ypfHyjywhAAUJc89LB2tIPj0iiyFhsfB7RW3Yx7HTbScUswLIux5WOMmOJFA-hNbx3CIDkuYFDz7kNeyc-eMIOhRFW7uX9N3Z7G4dnfF2c2e7nUHJVdejX33F2lxEVaSb_vf6d/s400/P1000263.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434425214793868962" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWW9bOyURo1-w45J02nOXEg8oG_Afbj1trC3qzh0QsOlBLvaXpeY2W4ZsHuTK91F62wdoVgukJQq1O5essoTuF4sBGwBueAfBlruzt0ge_0BiLHTDqb99Ct23rXQdvhlVyaAo3Y9Jn/s1600-h/P1000259.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWW9bOyURo1-w45J02nOXEg8oG_Afbj1trC3qzh0QsOlBLvaXpeY2W4ZsHuTK91F62wdoVgukJQq1O5essoTuF4sBGwBueAfBlruzt0ge_0BiLHTDqb99Ct23rXQdvhlVyaAo3Y9Jn/s400/P1000259.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434425228478767442" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5hT3aK46wpCDzAlXhQvilO1CCVyEYpBO4Z5WhAjZVfVqebE010FJtwjj4qOjz8_jGPb003JR_LS-jC1G34nzFNZ_tHzuX4a_b1gIrBi_LQZeYxjCP7DWlyYhs_bHHCYDuUmT9gSrW/s1600-h/P1000258.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5hT3aK46wpCDzAlXhQvilO1CCVyEYpBO4Z5WhAjZVfVqebE010FJtwjj4qOjz8_jGPb003JR_LS-jC1G34nzFNZ_tHzuX4a_b1gIrBi_LQZeYxjCP7DWlyYhs_bHHCYDuUmT9gSrW/s400/P1000258.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434425235906569250" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-iGPkVzLb7_c0Au3Pas5tCj8Wthmnw_JvyorWfMJUwJ2yB9ehQE2EklmQhkAiOd_pq1MHSMcU4EJ797ia6IqO-pr0wWZdklPc5rPef0wmatYo2rP8ZQsGSZqKB7QRstfgOuqccTKV/s1600-h/P1000252.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-iGPkVzLb7_c0Au3Pas5tCj8Wthmnw_JvyorWfMJUwJ2yB9ehQE2EklmQhkAiOd_pq1MHSMcU4EJ797ia6IqO-pr0wWZdklPc5rPef0wmatYo2rP8ZQsGSZqKB7QRstfgOuqccTKV/s400/P1000252.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434425243399941330" border="0" /></a>Beautiful new lifestyle shoes... can't wait to show them off when they come out!
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<br />New alpine boots! The Phantom Lite will now be the Phantom Guide, the Summit has been transformed into the fancy Mont Blanc. I will be trying this new boot on long Norwegian ice climbs! And the Triolet - perfect durable light summer alpine boot - has been revamped! Check it all out on the <a href="http://www.scarpa.com/scarpa.php">Scarpa Website</a>!
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<br />Petzl is coming out with an awesome new line of products!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkC3RHeOk4tIbPNAwZ1XSzTL90h8O-9YxjyFdX4yFKcEnaJn2KCst_lyIPFw33AppMyKcJTkadAGRkre6x9OdXoJlDrVHHXBuCdVPvTnlOf1_tSRhhtcp4WX2kRG3p5CVIUUk4QNdb/s1600-h/P1000237.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkC3RHeOk4tIbPNAwZ1XSzTL90h8O-9YxjyFdX4yFKcEnaJn2KCst_lyIPFw33AppMyKcJTkadAGRkre6x9OdXoJlDrVHHXBuCdVPvTnlOf1_tSRhhtcp4WX2kRG3p5CVIUUk4QNdb/s400/P1000237.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434433399847831058" border="0" /></a>
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<br />The Spirit carabiners have been one of Petzl's most beloved products. No teeth, perfect shape, they are/were the must of biner. But with the new area of lightweight carabiners, Petzl took the time to perfect a new set of carabiners. The Angel (the draws to the left of the Spirits). The draws come in different lengths and the biners are color-coded: blue and orange for the bottom biner, grey for the biner you clip into the bolt. The Angel are no less than revolutionary.
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<br />Petzl also came out with a lighter Elios for women and for kids (bottom helmets on the picture).
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<br /><meta name="Title" content=""> <meta name="Keywords" content=""> <meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"> <meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"> <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 11"> <meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 11"> <link rel="File-List" href="file://localhost/Users/Caroline/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip1/01/clip_filelist.xml"> <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:documentproperties> <o:template>Normal</o:Template> <o:revision>0</o:Revision> <o:totaltime>0</o:TotalTime> <o:pages>1</o:Pages> <o:words>1</o:Words> <o:characters>11</o:Characters> <o:lines>1</o:Lines> <o:paragraphs>1</o:Paragraphs> <o:characterswithspaces>13</o:CharactersWithSpaces> <o:version>11.768</o:Version> </o:DocumentProperties> <o:officedocumentsettings> <o:allowpng/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:donotshowrevisions/> <w:donotprintrevisions/> <w:displayhorizontaldrawinggridevery>0</w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w:displayverticaldrawinggridevery>0</w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:usemarginsfordrawinggridorigin/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> <style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:"Times New Roman"; panose-1:0 2 2 6 3 5 4 5 2 3; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:50331648 0 0 0 1 0;} @font-face {font-family:Tahoma; panose-1:0 2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:50331648 0 0 0 1 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-parent:""; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt; mso-header-margin:36.0pt; mso-footer-margin:36.0pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --></style><span style=";font-family:Tahoma;font-size:9pt;" ></span><!--EndFragment--> And Petzl also came out with a much awaited new version of the Quark and of the Nomic, and added to the line the amazing Ergo (top ice axe, orange). The Ergo is radically curved with two pommels to make switching hands easier. I haven't tried it yet, but rumor has it that it swings really well and is perfect for mixed climbing. More on that when I get to climb on it. What was missing on the Nomic - a hammer and a spike - no longer is! Petzl came up with an amazing idea: a removable hammer or adze. How genius is that? For my next alpine adventure, I can choose to carry a hammer - or not - along, depending on what my objective is! The handle is smaller and <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6OVJdhKDAQ7g7Jbcdld5fUrpOEuvj0i40K_OJIBPxH5rR9_Tqn1LofEHd1S3LAjKXmyE-hCgRiqCMRUMIOtpFl0Lw8DZYM23DWgnqvBoYBjm2F3W8YZ-77VYhpEd7cQbNTDmcRTFM/s1600-h/P1000241.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6OVJdhKDAQ7g7Jbcdld5fUrpOEuvj0i40K_OJIBPxH5rR9_Tqn1LofEHd1S3LAjKXmyE-hCgRiqCMRUMIOtpFl0Lw8DZYM23DWgnqvBoYBjm2F3W8YZ-77VYhpEd7cQbNTDmcRTFM/s400/P1000241.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434433408723602626" border="0" /></a>is more attractive with the added orange. And the added spike makes this tool a lot more versatile!
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<br />The new Quark should have been called Transformer. It can do so many things at once, it's awesome! It adapts to whatever you want to do: pure ice, alpine route, mountaineering, etc. It's small and light enough that you will always want it along! The hand grip can be removed so that the spike works better. The pommel can moved up and out of the way on alpine climbs, or put above the handle so that you can switch hands on it, the hammer is removable, etc.!
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<br />Petzl also came out with more powerful and more stylish (!) headlamps. They come in all sorts of colors. My favorite, of course, is the pink one! But moreover, Petzl came out with a rechargeable battery. Now you can recharge your headlamp with your USB port or any other charger! Sustainable and ingenious, wouldn't you say?
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMhgARmDS-SQPg7x2ZiFWWgY4PsYnFlYg9TMvswrmZ-Lfq6irXuatQhG1PKFKpYeHKKjtL76Y2V_nNv9vQGUlovDu_tsbPs6Opi6_UG_XctYlwXympCFPO-YQQjihhWfSPEB3QlEKA/s1600-h/P1000247.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMhgARmDS-SQPg7x2ZiFWWgY4PsYnFlYg9TMvswrmZ-Lfq6irXuatQhG1PKFKpYeHKKjtL76Y2V_nNv9vQGUlovDu_tsbPs6Opi6_UG_XctYlwXympCFPO-YQQjihhWfSPEB3QlEKA/s400/P1000247.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434445389029855922" border="0" /></a>Julbo needs no introduction in the Outdoor community. Just about every mountain guide I know - in Europe or in North America - wears Julbo sunglasses. And the reason for that is...? well, just coz they are the best on the market.
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<br />This year, Julbo came out with the <a href="http://www.julbousa.com/mountain/monterosa/">Monte Rosa</a>, a stylish and feminine alpine pair of sunglasses. Specs: For those ladies who explore the summits yet also enjoy the hustle and bustle of urban life, Julbo presents the Monta Rosa. With removable shields, high protection lenses and a curved ergonomic shape, the MonteRosa offers adaptability, versatility and complete protection.
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<br />Julbo owner Christophe Beaud obviously doesn't think that the Monte Rosa should be limited to women! <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jbiLngEfaarfAxtJSH37CBnQeO9Jy3mKGKQvPTtfd6Blquh5hVIRRjSor-CVnEc96i7GNHFtK5IKMR3G8yq7iQGXR2hGC3oFCBp2rb0xjbCUiJCqkQRh9Y3yCRsL6zYJv6EQumFM/s1600-h/P1000245.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jbiLngEfaarfAxtJSH37CBnQeO9Jy3mKGKQvPTtfd6Blquh5hVIRRjSor-CVnEc96i7GNHFtK5IKMR3G8yq7iQGXR2hGC3oFCBp2rb0xjbCUiJCqkQRh9Y3yCRsL6zYJv6EQumFM/s400/P1000245.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434445362308380946" border="0" /></a>
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<br />The <a href="http://www.julbousa.com/performance/whoops/">Whoops</a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVaAaCoCGr5SO6sEUgcJZz3m4nsQHoJ9KT2hmtP265gGrhBYTGl02_innef8sVCTPGUbPEBZLBulko4rnnt6z3qeY4Xcjxg2hriDJq9rR3MfhCE5VHqal2Kti3MXlS-dI8xK5LXrtU/s1600-h/P1000248.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVaAaCoCGr5SO6sEUgcJZz3m4nsQHoJ9KT2hmtP265gGrhBYTGl02_innef8sVCTPGUbPEBZLBulko4rnnt6z3qeY4Xcjxg2hriDJq9rR3MfhCE5VHqal2Kti3MXlS-dI8xK5LXrtU/s400/P1000248.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434445373315520066" border="0" /></a>is are made for smaller faces and offer a perfect fit both in the mountains and in the city! The white ones, as always, are my absolute favorites!
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<br />And last but not least, the very trendy <a href="http://www.julbo-eyewear.com/en/Products_direct_access/Sunglasses/Sport_Travel_149/Fly_305.html">Fly.</a> These are for sure going to be my goto sunnies for 2010!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFDZrdeNjs57RRsdXOQW_E1hHcVkvIKNxGiR-_7Icvjn3tDetSrj8zdDbxY8xJnEAaFmP7rWa-22uHocJqHkfi2ipuRa9n4YCmfMW6YdlfEVFkyB11fInsUoAlo_Y2jUKP9E78X0kn/s1600-h/P1000249.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFDZrdeNjs57RRsdXOQW_E1hHcVkvIKNxGiR-_7Icvjn3tDetSrj8zdDbxY8xJnEAaFmP7rWa-22uHocJqHkfi2ipuRa9n4YCmfMW6YdlfEVFkyB11fInsUoAlo_Y2jUKP9E78X0kn/s400/P1000249.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434451469160410002" border="0" /></a>
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<br />This year's show was my favorite, hands down. Lots of people, lots of fun. The atmosphere was way more relaxed then last year's, after the economic crash!
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<br /> What caught your eye during the show this year? What was your favorite product? Please share with me!
<br />Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-56985908618206381442010-02-04T07:24:00.000-08:002010-02-08T09:40:27.630-08:00Andrew Burr Eye CandyTwo days out with great friends and an amazing photographer: Andrew Burr. Check his website out: http://andrewburr.com/ and http://andrewburr.blogspot.com/<br /><br />Thanks, Andy!<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlYk7g5xV756Kb1UjOkYW0E0X_4YtkRHt52vK8aZcd-LiTv2vJ5ZaQSGwWtsl2d-VIfzR6MFUsTyT2HYBlT-St_wRPZUCzRcMVlqyE-XrckahQFKXW_r2KChAEHWbKNz-5qishM4X/s1600-h/burr011210-020.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlYk7g5xV756Kb1UjOkYW0E0X_4YtkRHt52vK8aZcd-LiTv2vJ5ZaQSGwWtsl2d-VIfzR6MFUsTyT2HYBlT-St_wRPZUCzRcMVlqyE-XrckahQFKXW_r2KChAEHWbKNz-5qishM4X/s400/burr011210-020.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434410039329725954" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://ines-papert.de/">Ines Paper</a>t on the first pitch of Ames Ice Hose<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGL0jGY_-8FdEqUxa1KOtRLgtXp_r7zK2HlN-ZOFYl_2RwWXBaTH3o2dZ49j6oChL13A73tqBY3H8wBVHbTm4JVGC2zyVOWDXSBuf1kZDyMM_SrcwPYshOsBQ2vWMcFI7avxiLyA_b/s1600-h/burr011210-062.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGL0jGY_-8FdEqUxa1KOtRLgtXp_r7zK2HlN-ZOFYl_2RwWXBaTH3o2dZ49j6oChL13A73tqBY3H8wBVHbTm4JVGC2zyVOWDXSBuf1kZDyMM_SrcwPYshOsBQ2vWMcFI7avxiLyA_b/s400/burr011210-062.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434410050627166546" border="0" /></a>Starting up the second pitch on Ames: we both got to the pitch a few times. This pitch holds a lot of history for me: my husband to be, Adam was on this pitch when my tools came flying down from the top of the route and almost hit him. This is how we met, we were married shortly thereafter.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU20LsUPKM1D_3WmmikTOn361E_aySEbFeSOBSaUVebpZCL2ETN3V_N58YY0cMdWJYvx3RP7ZOjsvE1c7QdDN_wz8Q_-8nKn2WtPzfptk7qpupq9r5I-0CIH74krjeZBNcfUl1LQAz/s1600-h/burr011210-128.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU20LsUPKM1D_3WmmikTOn361E_aySEbFeSOBSaUVebpZCL2ETN3V_N58YY0cMdWJYvx3RP7ZOjsvE1c7QdDN_wz8Q_-8nKn2WtPzfptk7qpupq9r5I-0CIH74krjeZBNcfUl1LQAz/s400/burr011210-128.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434410050994737426" border="0" /></a><br />Ines pitch two<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Fq3_fmXxBse0VRLd_JQ8v2N_ucZQO5Tql8-HyCc7LC-KGvuq4WiZT7IAWbVa9eAUeOEPwMQ7wP0iqE1UHqx4DVoa_HpQKCAcraaE92hbNyKOegIKFzQ3vwmgTVPJvrJl6e4tjKoP/s1600-h/burr011210-217.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Fq3_fmXxBse0VRLd_JQ8v2N_ucZQO5Tql8-HyCc7LC-KGvuq4WiZT7IAWbVa9eAUeOEPwMQ7wP0iqE1UHqx4DVoa_HpQKCAcraaE92hbNyKOegIKFzQ3vwmgTVPJvrJl6e4tjKoP/s400/burr011210-217.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434410065124029730" border="0" /></a><br />Last pitch of Ames Ice Hose. Awesome exposure<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu1oPn4SUDop3UsNWkq7-n1Sa2r5RjCzgqYf0_9OUREfH0HtlUyJCEDfoVh5yZmljhzfaOHSSokPDjRdIRWTxG9r1w5pe6eBHb06ZuGwf0H9KXjjRApRIbikqr1fHlT8wayq1kXxXx/s1600-h/burr011210-403.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu1oPn4SUDop3UsNWkq7-n1Sa2r5RjCzgqYf0_9OUREfH0HtlUyJCEDfoVh5yZmljhzfaOHSSokPDjRdIRWTxG9r1w5pe6eBHb06ZuGwf0H9KXjjRApRIbikqr1fHlT8wayq1kXxXx/s400/burr011210-403.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434410073231129234" border="0" /></a><br />Piton anchor love<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgELv09RovpnLxA8Te9LQUmXdpdUhGiLcKDgVOxwW3yLKj4ftco91x30QgEKkqM8jen07ruabAWzc3ZAYrbVe7oETePVdnmKrFIUw5rjAXTlGGXcVGygRbx2zi1LkaRXc5oD5u451cX/s1600-h/burr011210-429.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgELv09RovpnLxA8Te9LQUmXdpdUhGiLcKDgVOxwW3yLKj4ftco91x30QgEKkqM8jen07ruabAWzc3ZAYrbVe7oETePVdnmKrFIUw5rjAXTlGGXcVGygRbx2zi1LkaRXc5oD5u451cX/s400/burr011210-429.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434410493369227362" border="0" /></a>Really? the first generating station??!!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsclK99xSbRxQlyhcZCGs5Z2EwrWSipDdXfnIVFWReoCWlSegATwgaOF7JaZiuYsAUkjwnKWhKXvaesTQFSuTsQJ-nwLEPpRJrix7n1k-dlwkruz7xbtlVzI8T2XOj7er4yAfydNs2/s1600-h/burr011210-435.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsclK99xSbRxQlyhcZCGs5Z2EwrWSipDdXfnIVFWReoCWlSegATwgaOF7JaZiuYsAUkjwnKWhKXvaesTQFSuTsQJ-nwLEPpRJrix7n1k-dlwkruz7xbtlVzI8T2XOj7er4yAfydNs2/s400/burr011210-435.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434410502998226898" border="0" /></a><br />:-)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivlu4_MHk4JZNxJy8CriZKyyQqy64ndMoc4q3TDgQIAURPuSOyfzgJfE33zba2bYhN_yBs3tPrn4jvH4tTF5ty5knyityREH_UcSXGhsKxYI0olZ9-K35IsXGI6UqLgEBvMZgSiDRF/s1600-h/burr011210-449.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivlu4_MHk4JZNxJy8CriZKyyQqy64ndMoc4q3TDgQIAURPuSOyfzgJfE33zba2bYhN_yBs3tPrn4jvH4tTF5ty5knyityREH_UcSXGhsKxYI0olZ9-K35IsXGI6UqLgEBvMZgSiDRF/s400/burr011210-449.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434410512302192002" border="0" /></a><br />Coffee time at the greatest bookstore on earth: "<a href="http://www.between-the-covers.com/">Between the Covers</a>", in Telluride, CO<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0XMwBw5CQVwZ3FgkRhyV5DRuyUVDD8ByBVm5c-fITGxuSKVGn01JCJr6HXgvFdp2plqPMnIl6-I8z3PFG4wid7M5OTQ3G1xpyun1ji_ZgI9m9ymoymAqoeRjneYHLeCy_s7hCfM9_/s1600-h/burr011310-259.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0XMwBw5CQVwZ3FgkRhyV5DRuyUVDD8ByBVm5c-fITGxuSKVGn01JCJr6HXgvFdp2plqPMnIl6-I8z3PFG4wid7M5OTQ3G1xpyun1ji_ZgI9m9ymoymAqoeRjneYHLeCy_s7hCfM9_/s400/burr011310-259.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434411122059010802" border="0" /></a>Drytooling on CampBird Road above Ouray, CO<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRN-lkfZf77s2iM9YMU80Y1_f29g59hw8NnV_3KEaOkHISIJBFcbX7pVBAXT1EyhuVjPArgVuEbr6ENgedblnHDayrJJr9hNLhs0jkcwMr9iwyJRah1dWL6WeudK47Mk3RyCqRiyq/s1600-h/burr011310-268.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRN-lkfZf77s2iM9YMU80Y1_f29g59hw8NnV_3KEaOkHISIJBFcbX7pVBAXT1EyhuVjPArgVuEbr6ENgedblnHDayrJJr9hNLhs0jkcwMr9iwyJRah1dWL6WeudK47Mk3RyCqRiyq/s400/burr011310-268.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434411128314672866" border="0" /></a><br />Nice bolt!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEida0AVRmt1lMZHmcq-9vQzWAJWM2iS8C6sZaXK1eq49-6iHvB3kK-nXIbNrTtHpi8-3Sz92h3HydS9e02k4RWlbjNnxz3sYHVVLgqV_smU4uEbV4j3mrLDqS4qtihM8DKsS9BzFVJs/s1600-h/burr011310-070.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEida0AVRmt1lMZHmcq-9vQzWAJWM2iS8C6sZaXK1eq49-6iHvB3kK-nXIbNrTtHpi8-3Sz92h3HydS9e02k4RWlbjNnxz3sYHVVLgqV_smU4uEbV4j3mrLDqS4qtihM8DKsS9BzFVJs/s400/burr011310-070.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434410515155671378" border="0" /></a><br />Jason Nelson on a wet Skylight. More about Jason @ <a href="http://visualdventures.com">Visual Adventures.com</a><div><br /></div><div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnD_PbhBVPYJ4iaK7hD2v3tQ8ZdN4ytmPDK4d_dvbUN5aKei4ZndbPDVcSk0aZUcxoctOxk_C4bIHYxLt-IK_EwMk_UKL-CWqhTSUxrbM2q0x6gdstrP5FjC65A-zu4qFHTxuVoMRI/s1600-h/burr011310-163.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnD_PbhBVPYJ4iaK7hD2v3tQ8ZdN4ytmPDK4d_dvbUN5aKei4ZndbPDVcSk0aZUcxoctOxk_C4bIHYxLt-IK_EwMk_UKL-CWqhTSUxrbM2q0x6gdstrP5FjC65A-zu4qFHTxuVoMRI/s400/burr011310-163.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434410531095410082" border="0" /></a>Testing out the hood as it's pouring down on me<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5eVqmRvrsjSFpbvZh6XGg9AvFKbZeWKS0bvrQTaUC2nGiZZ_IRZQvFSin0ciX8RyhyphenhyphenoWIJoUMv0oOcRmKDkbYhwQgPsKStfYXB4w57jIKobGE41ls0ehM2uJ6FrGeIV2nYaKZCgI/s1600-h/burr011310-185.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5eVqmRvrsjSFpbvZh6XGg9AvFKbZeWKS0bvrQTaUC2nGiZZ_IRZQvFSin0ciX8RyhyphenhyphenoWIJoUMv0oOcRmKDkbYhwQgPsKStfYXB4w57jIKobGE41ls0ehM2uJ6FrGeIV2nYaKZCgI/s400/burr011310-185.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434411107650841330" border="0" /></a><br />More wetness...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8ulY3EdsNCIQElQDAPMMbHeHC8-frc_5f4rs1C0sQUthATz2w_EGfTAzfLjHV4zGXq9XxZWT-GMwOdrncnDwfvA_SBwwWK1MrrXt7qJ2PTCXQFFsTOk-ADpfj2PCYTcMC3U0-p_E/s1600-h/burr011310-195.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8ulY3EdsNCIQElQDAPMMbHeHC8-frc_5f4rs1C0sQUthATz2w_EGfTAzfLjHV4zGXq9XxZWT-GMwOdrncnDwfvA_SBwwWK1MrrXt7qJ2PTCXQFFsTOk-ADpfj2PCYTcMC3U0-p_E/s400/burr011310-195.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434411112528893122" border="0" /></a><br />Andy LOVES old anchors and gear...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbDK42eyWmooTvce6VLkOxqvWvlGDa9oDPy4H9v9sMTmdf73wj8tZjSTqeiSPdSyqrbn2L7MV3TyY9mDKmUDTQFQ2MJs7VeHW1Wc-wd8nx6ds7cfBk3rHPodxMI_oXeiays13jhDTm/s1600-h/burr011310-307.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbDK42eyWmooTvce6VLkOxqvWvlGDa9oDPy4H9v9sMTmdf73wj8tZjSTqeiSPdSyqrbn2L7MV3TyY9mDKmUDTQFQ2MJs7VeHW1Wc-wd8nx6ds7cfBk3rHPodxMI_oXeiays13jhDTm/s400/burr011310-307.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434411134710940770" border="0" /></a><br />Behind Jason's house... gorgeous... yet chossy!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0mYES67XSUIeaaFd64DbiD-IyUzjA14eUTZGRhnM6o2OihMTnLJPNWBECaph403o8zjP2Sjp9JW1Hn79svJq67mcJLdX9AGOBxSGFyDTeqq-UvGHUkdvBiw19HXnsdTRXYI5ww0tl/s1600-h/burr011310-339.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0mYES67XSUIeaaFd64DbiD-IyUzjA14eUTZGRhnM6o2OihMTnLJPNWBECaph403o8zjP2Sjp9JW1Hn79svJq67mcJLdX9AGOBxSGFyDTeqq-UvGHUkdvBiw19HXnsdTRXYI5ww0tl/s400/burr011310-339.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434411234611450434" border="0" /></a><br />Really... do I really have to climb all that bad rock?!</div>Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-54934425585746424762010-01-26T19:00:00.000-08:002010-01-26T19:05:16.502-08:00Ouray Ice Festival 2010<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBKFJochl-lQPp-7wNjzNVGLaicEuhLBlhe60Me_PbmyCAjnBZcqEJZ3t-ZR37uvgyeD2WXQtPMRslLGpeMsBPcsQuYA9k_Q9GuAcnta8t0PC6hLDUel484dC9av1ziDmESNXohHDFIdM/s1600-h/IMG_0276.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBKFJochl-lQPp-7wNjzNVGLaicEuhLBlhe60Me_PbmyCAjnBZcqEJZ3t-ZR37uvgyeD2WXQtPMRslLGpeMsBPcsQuYA9k_Q9GuAcnta8t0PC6hLDUel484dC9av1ziDmESNXohHDFIdM/s320/IMG_0276.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431242902171019586" border="0" /></a><br />Five years ago, I got on a plane from Switzerland to come and compete in the world class Ouray Ice Festival (www.ourayicefestival.com). Little did I know how much this event would change my life. Upon arriving here, I drove to Telluride to climb the classic Ames Ice Hose, a striking WI5 three pitch line. While rappelling the route, I mistakingly dropped my ice axes, which almost took out the leader of the party below. I apologized, he forgave me and six months later, we were married. During the event, I also met photographer/climber Jon Walsh (www.alpinestyle.ca), whom I met that following march in Canada with the perspective of climbing many routes in a day. We would climb anywhere from 2 to 7 pitches in a day, linking up stunning lines such as Nemesis and Suffer Machine, Nightmare on Wolfestreet and French Reality, the Weeping Wall/Weeping Pillar and Curtain Call, etc. Later in the trip, we focused on putting up new lines. They were hard and full value and when all was done, I wanted more. This was the beginning of my passion for first ascents.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Audrey, Matt and Pat with their fancy </span> <span style="font-style: italic;">rental car in Ouray</span></span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vagFoehfTRVsTGLzpoVi5bQ2KHCAlHcmxyHnv7ooDon292YDJosW2nTaRXBVeLsTswWwCP8jvcjoUZ3SKiG66_4ONgzuSsSFhM6UMdpyADMlSWtrFOEUVeDGNaWezi_eKgmjiv2VgR8/s1600-h/IMG_0270.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vagFoehfTRVsTGLzpoVi5bQ2KHCAlHcmxyHnv7ooDon292YDJosW2nTaRXBVeLsTswWwCP8jvcjoUZ3SKiG66_4ONgzuSsSFhM6UMdpyADMlSWtrFOEUVeDGNaWezi_eKgmjiv2VgR8/s320/IMG_0270.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431245859018136786" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Two years ago, I was back for the third time at the Ouray Ice Festival. Sitting across from me at breakfast one morning was fellow Petzl athlete Audrey Gariepy - an amazingly talented Quebecer climber. I was reading an email from Jon Walsh suggesting we meet up in March again to do first ascents in the remote Canadian Icefall Brooke cirque (http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-canadians-icefall-brook-mixed). I looked up and asked Audrey if she might be interested. She immediately said yes. We invited two other women to join us - Ines Papert and Jen Olsen. Two months later, we flew into the cirque and put up no less than 10 new routes in 10 days.<br /><br /><br /><br />Since it had all started at the Ouray Ice Festival, it only made sense for me this year to present a slideshow of this amazing journey into the Canadian wilderness. Thursday night, the Main Street Theater in Ouray was more than packed to view Andres Marin and I's slideshows. It was a blast. The crowd was excited and that made me all the more at ease to share this amazing journey into the wild. Since Ines Papert was in the audience, she agreed to talk about putting up what might be the hardest multipitch route in the world during that trip - an amazing feat that await a repetition to confirm the M12 rating. And thus started the 15th Annual Ouray Ice Festival - my 5th edition since I moved to the USA in 2006.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitYcPxNi7IExNL8Gfw2XoeoGTkPHepTtJvgdhgvbkEzv8puTXtsUZWTEEa30aa35lFFqyu0u8wWlrMwj00m99LjfmiWMYHlHHqLVWMw4poR30gf2STOLDe88cnzvDrA9GOVWNClQW_vMw/s1600-h/IMG_0288.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitYcPxNi7IExNL8Gfw2XoeoGTkPHepTtJvgdhgvbkEzv8puTXtsUZWTEEa30aa35lFFqyu0u8wWlrMwj00m99LjfmiWMYHlHHqLVWMw4poR30gf2STOLDe88cnzvDrA9GOVWNClQW_vMw/s320/IMG_0288.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431240823846135026" border="0" /></a>Every year, I debate whether or not to compete in the event. Competing requires a lot of training and being a last minute kinda girl, I always end up feeling pretty stressed out about the upcoming competition. Sometime in november, I started hanging from my ice axes in the kids playground I have in my backyard in Salt Lake City. I would hang for 15 minutes at a time, doing pull ups with one foot resting on a bar, then shaking out before doing knee raises and kicking my foot as high as possible in the air to work the core. This year, I also went to France and climbed on huge overhanging routes that have been set up especially for dry-tooling. Route setters drilled and painted holes in the rock to place ice axes in and hung logs on the route as well. This was amazing training. Yet, as I flew home from spending Christmas in Europe, I started getting sick. I had intended to drive down early to Ouray for some last minute training and getting used to the style of climbing down in Ouray again. Instead, I was bed ridden for three and half days with strepthroat. When antibiotics finally started working their magic, I got out of bed to drive down to Ouray and pick up my friend <a href="http://rockclimberjasmin.blogspot.com/">Jasmin Caton</a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivPZZ8Qij6Vpf2DOtIp9Gq99YOKEqujjb5xQsLIUtFbKzaRiavpJrU7753DMZTCIjK-MWsZOYrN8V0KVYuz02cOqaLGh5s9rFIloKvB96JEB0N06cPYzed3uEEcQFJEztozbxhrCNEsxE/s1600-h/IMG_0275.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivPZZ8Qij6Vpf2DOtIp9Gq99YOKEqujjb5xQsLIUtFbKzaRiavpJrU7753DMZTCIjK-MWsZOYrN8V0KVYuz02cOqaLGh5s9rFIloKvB96JEB0N06cPYzed3uEEcQFJEztozbxhrCNEsxE/s320/IMG_0275.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431245853768605650" border="0" /></a>on the way. Ironically, once I got on the rock, I felt the strongest I had ever felt and I got excited about competing again. Saturday morning, I got up early to warm up with Majka Burhardt. I was scheduled to climb at 10.40am on Saturday. I rapped down into the canyon a little before that and checked out the route once the previous competitor had fallen off. The route was long - 140ft - and overhanging, but it looked fun. Vince Anderson, the route setter, had decided on a sit start. I put my Nomics in the starting hole in the ice and started after the 3-2-1 count down. The little ice problem at the start felt easy. I was calm and really motivated. I clipped the second draw, put my tool on a piece of ice and as I lifted my other tool to make my next move, the ice hold my weight was now fully on broke, and I fell. And just like that, it was over. I didn't even have time to realize what was happening. I lowered down and climbed the ice to get out of the canyon. Instantly, I looked for a partner to go climb with in the park. I was motivated and frustrated, and it proved to the perfect attitude I needed to redeem myself and send my little project: Mighty Aphrodite (M9).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWKBlHRku2OkF-3bfp6dDejqwmYvVd3iGoWhhx9Cw477EEU_7FafMDddBBPrZhXB1Y5bwtRm62JLMvcvq3CnJqm8RgoL66ynsqXNwS8JvXG_zYQjj6-2z22m-GydAjUEm5_eJv0QZGh0A/s1600-h/100111Ouray+0400.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWKBlHRku2OkF-3bfp6dDejqwmYvVd3iGoWhhx9Cw477EEU_7FafMDddBBPrZhXB1Y5bwtRm62JLMvcvq3CnJqm8RgoL66ynsqXNwS8JvXG_zYQjj6-2z22m-GydAjUEm5_eJv0QZGh0A/s320/100111Ouray+0400.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431247681216607666" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizB3QuvJcrRQl07u_5h2Gsdqqmh9yvbqxbXjk1curlfH6wsdxUie99VCGrIdzbskdB_kkX5wq3hzGq1emsBDda25JuUzRLaTJ04v3RXcZ1yssIFxg7-kcaTkfHBUAxB80CVx4o2Iof_RU/s1600-h/100111Ouray+0189.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizB3QuvJcrRQl07u_5h2Gsdqqmh9yvbqxbXjk1curlfH6wsdxUie99VCGrIdzbskdB_kkX5wq3hzGq1emsBDda25JuUzRLaTJ04v3RXcZ1yssIFxg7-kcaTkfHBUAxB80CVx4o2Iof_RU/s320/100111Ouray+0189.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431247676631598002" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Photos courtesy of <a href="http://www.jamesqmartin.com/photography/index.html">James Q Martin</a></span></span><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvrB7cqZD3RoQalmcl7vTUEw6z32wI-1vYcQwDa9b4caq9XTF8yc28WdWFatu8jtBVBZW_GOLUQE1Iadrejx3wH3lJL4nWEwd5z-J795hU35z19zxXUCqefLitsZcin3tQfLk02764E0/s1600-h/IMG_0279.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvrB7cqZD3RoQalmcl7vTUEw6z32wI-1vYcQwDa9b4caq9XTF8yc28WdWFatu8jtBVBZW_GOLUQE1Iadrejx3wH3lJL4nWEwd5z-J795hU35z19zxXUCqefLitsZcin3tQfLk02764E0/s320/IMG_0279.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431240833004772802" border="0" /></a>Josh Wharton won the competition for the man and Ines Papert won for the women. While the competition was happening, multiple ice climbing and paragliding world champion Will Gadd was climbing as many pitches as he could during a 24hours period to raise money for the Dzi Foundation. Check out www.endlessascent.com to learn more about Will's incredible feat!<br /><br /><br />The rest of the event was spent teaching clinics and meeting people from All over who share the same passion for ice climbing. Audrey and I taught Advanced Ice and Advanced Mixed climbing together one day and then I taught a beginner's class solo. The Ouray Ice Festival is an amazing time to learn from professionals. Clinics always fill out so it's important to sign up early. The Ouray Ice Festival also hosts the best party. This year, Petzl hosted the outrageous Super Hero- Guy Lacelle party, which raised 4000$ for the Ice Park. People were dressed in Wonder Woman, The Incredible Hulk, Men in Black, Batman and Robin, Superman and many others!<br /><br /><br />The 15th Annual Ouray Ice Festival was a great success. Beyond the competition, the outrageous party, the avalanche of great slideshows and the clinics, this edition was also a great occasion for the climbing tribe to reunite and celebrate those who have left us too soon. I already look forward to taking part in the 16th Annucal Ouray Ice Festival!<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://www.firstascent.com/">First Ascent </a>Tent at the Ouray Ice Festival</span></span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOTHXqT6r4z70lF1xRxveHhnq8FGo-Xw5nEHDBPlQtoV5Q-BxT2UGt66YhhWqKMZ8Ov_2e3QVx5rTIYGWu1TJI5mRXdDxPUgEL8YwO7Ns3e3wF1tqzKTe758RAUFSsy-sWS1laIASCYqw/s1600-h/IMG_0277.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOTHXqT6r4z70lF1xRxveHhnq8FGo-Xw5nEHDBPlQtoV5Q-BxT2UGt66YhhWqKMZ8Ov_2e3QVx5rTIYGWu1TJI5mRXdDxPUgEL8YwO7Ns3e3wF1tqzKTe758RAUFSsy-sWS1laIASCYqw/s320/IMG_0277.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431245831421063266" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Post Ice Festival Ames Ice Hose Climbing with <a href="http://www.andrewburr.com/">Andrew Burr</a> and <a href="http://www.ines-papert.de/">Ines Papert</a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpgzQd0hd68wDSAiaXZthT1V2kFIfHPtw7TV7LkR2AHd4PP3rvJC-L6EQFsmGBzqZYIJEyAQh6WCirsUBwhFtKFhS4x_6gOvl6V-S9DyBnvF-dekNREJEWm0fIphC-MPT7_ktTZwm7atI/s1600-h/IMG_0297.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpgzQd0hd68wDSAiaXZthT1V2kFIfHPtw7TV7LkR2AHd4PP3rvJC-L6EQFsmGBzqZYIJEyAQh6WCirsUBwhFtKFhS4x_6gOvl6V-S9DyBnvF-dekNREJEWm0fIphC-MPT7_ktTZwm7atI/s320/IMG_0297.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431240111741289346" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHOPlU3SWpEDN9xTG0-N8KpvdfQKJx2_K8_3TqPBb-I2bJQtxzrRKE3zgfO4Gh31rFBGq_1GWEw4OfsAnKdId70_0ec0c41w_56cMUrBhdFIkbUoO8moYRE-V1kZ9DtRazSklcfr3AT8/s1600-h/IMG_0292.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHOPlU3SWpEDN9xTG0-N8KpvdfQKJx2_K8_3TqPBb-I2bJQtxzrRKE3zgfO4Gh31rFBGq_1GWEw4OfsAnKdId70_0ec0c41w_56cMUrBhdFIkbUoO8moYRE-V1kZ9DtRazSklcfr3AT8/s320/IMG_0292.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5431240815553984610" border="0" /></a>Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-27534640777783141412010-01-03T16:36:00.000-08:002010-01-19T08:37:17.375-08:00Dark Cloud<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="text-decoration: underline;"><br /></span></span></div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-h3UU_RVHTXAxF5skGd4iib0MeKeCaWTm_00BEphqbfvzSyV0FDPKGF_jV_5DKZAbX3e4T9fobX9Sg6ZoRDc4MHXF3LT14VASj7W_cR-VgL0Xkp5VD9ni5MZC7_7MhlQ21J4B6L4G/s400/P1000065.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428488216286894082" />The sight of the wind blowing the cold snow off the trees, I shiver. "It's still going to be cold today with the windchill factor", I mutter to Adam. Sitting next to me, Adam is driving our Toyota Tacoma up the well groomed Hyalite Canyon Road. He's been wearing his harness since he woke up this morning. Since competing in the previous edition of the Invitational IceBreaker (http://www.montanaalpineguides.com/bozemanicefestival/icebreaker.html), Adam has been looking forward to competing again this year.We arrived here a few days ago and tried to make the most out of our time here despite an average of -20F each day. Today, temperatures are meant to be in the teens. Yet with the wind, it may not feel much warmer. At least, we will be moving a lot. As legendary ice climber and organizer of the competition Joe Josephson - aka JoJo - explained during our pre competition meeting the previous night at the Northern Lights (http://www.northernlightstrading.com/), we will have to hit two areas in the lower portion of the canyon and one area in the upper part of the canyon. This means that we will be spend just about as much climbing as hiking, between 7am and 4pm, at which time, all the competitors will have to be back in the main parking lot. <div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3oGHN9cxdPC_nXg1ePgWw1Ax-PcmvyyGy9eHOliP7rfiVDkWou8y33Gy1W2z1Hq_kpSJZpG1MtGUSE3nelL2K3gbxd3or1Xir1jkrpy6gxcA7sBUHSKd64PPOiKkSVbokVY_CUArP/s1600-h/P1000110.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3oGHN9cxdPC_nXg1ePgWw1Ax-PcmvyyGy9eHOliP7rfiVDkWou8y33Gy1W2z1Hq_kpSJZpG1MtGUSE3nelL2K3gbxd3or1Xir1jkrpy6gxcA7sBUHSKd64PPOiKkSVbokVY_CUArP/s400/P1000110.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428488872480604482" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></a>It's 6.30am when we park the car. Competitors are getting their gear ready and psyching up for the long and exciting day ahead. We start to make out the surrounding summits as dawn is slowly breaking. I greet my partner Adrienne, who is already geared up and ready to go. I met her last night for the first time ever when JoJo randomly paired us up. Although I was hoping to be with my long time friend and last year partner Sarah Hueniken, <div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="text-decoration: underline;"><br /></span></span></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8_Mce6SWPCmA7rSbc1STf_uzeOSMHx15Y60o5gTULFIKsOm9zqJ8xSRNGAJDqQiR04oklU79cIjDk01FOja350igafqPbill-Gxh_myZ9g8rJHXUtDobpS7sPn1bfH2qnV-yvNd2i/s1600-h/IMG_0113.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8_Mce6SWPCmA7rSbc1STf_uzeOSMHx15Y60o5gTULFIKsOm9zqJ8xSRNGAJDqQiR04oklU79cIjDk01FOja350igafqPbill-Gxh_myZ9g8rJHXUtDobpS7sPn1bfH2qnV-yvNd2i/s400/IMG_0113.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428488889241466258" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></a>I welcomed the opportunity to climb with someone new. All teams were assigned a starting area and we had spent a half hour strategizing which routes to climb and which areas to hit after the Mummy Cooler Area, where we would be starting. The goal of the competition is to earn the most points, by climbing routes that have the highest score, but that also don't take up too much time.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbjmZ2SjL_uUISA7ldWcZaNyRz0cWSA6ccbX0FLhJTuXpZazuGfDiPIKT82EjPET6aqR81euTflabGAjfEiv5yrugHZN9sNRuwMF0jTqGqBQp1yQZWY0tFpYyIvtPrdZfRjk1uu1gk/s1600-h/IMG_0115.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbjmZ2SjL_uUISA7ldWcZaNyRz0cWSA6ccbX0FLhJTuXpZazuGfDiPIKT82EjPET6aqR81euTflabGAjfEiv5yrugHZN9sNRuwMF0jTqGqBQp1yQZWY0tFpYyIvtPrdZfRjk1uu1gk/s400/IMG_0115.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428488882617908834" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a>It's 7am when JoJo give the "Start" call. We all start running on the snowy trail. We warm up on Thin Chance, Fat Chance and a mixed route in between the two - The White Zombie. Then, we hike up to Crypt Orchid before climbing the two routes further right: Cave and Gully and Feeing the Cat. As I lead Cave and Gully, I start getting pummeled with intense spindrifts. I can't look up or climb up without eating and getting blinded by snow. Simultaneously, I hear a big boom. Is it an avalanche, I wonder? Did it release above me? It's around 9.30am. Eventually the spindrifts stop and I keep climbing as fast as I can to get back down to the shelter of the cave below, where Adrienne is belaying me. With our focus being on the competition, we push away thoughts of potential avalanche hazard. We are in a pretty sheltered area and being in a competition somehow adds to the feeling of security. As we make our way to the next climb, we step into pretty deep pockets of snow. The angle isn't steep enough for real avalanche hazard, but I start wondering what it might be higher up. It hasn't snowed in a few days and the avalanche hazard is rated low. Yet, signs are starting to line up.<br /><br />We leave the Mummy Cooler Area to hit the upper section of Hyalite Canyon and start up the never ending hike up to the Dribbles Area, home to a few multipitch ice climbs. Since it is the easiest area to access in the upper area of the canyon, I expect to see other competitors hiking up or down from this area, or to spot people on climbs such as Responsible Family Man, Avalanche Gulch, The Dribbles or Silken Falls - the climb we opted to climb. Yet, we see no one. Not a soul in sight. Not a sound either. I notice that the footsteps forming the path are all facing downhill. The sky is darkening and it is starting to snow. It's around noon. There are no climbers on any of the climbs. Although we feel somewhat lucky, the place is starting to feel eerie. Where is everyone? Still in competition mode, we march on straight to Silken Falls, a 400ft climb on the far right side of the area, that would earn us 2000 points. At the foot of the climb, Adrienne drops her watch and asks me if I can go pick it up. I hike down to the watch, which is sitting 60ft down on the snow. As I turn around to make my way back up to our packs, I notice a Petzl Nomic standing up straight in the snow with an orange helmet covering the head and pick. I lean over and see boots fitting with Dart crampons. "I think there is someone there", I tell Adrienne. I am about 200ft above the person and start calling out: "Hey, are you OK? Do you help? What's going on?" But nothing. No answer. "I need to go check on the person", I inform Adrienne. "Pass me by backpack. maybe I can give them some tea". I instantly feel foolish for not carrying a first aid kit. I am in denial, thinking that the person must be injured and might have gone into hypothermia, which would explain why he is unresponsive. The body is hidden behind a tree. As I get closer, I see blood staining the cold snow. I still call out. I still expect an answer. I still expect to see motion. I stil expect to see the torso rising. Only when I see the white plastic-like hands do I understand. The person is dead.<br /><br />I call out to Adrienne to come down. I can't deal with being alone with the body. I have never come across a dead person in the mountain. It's a reality we never want to be confronted with. I don't know who it is as the face is covered with a black veil and I don't dare to lift it up. I am afraid to find out, I am afraid I'll never be able to forget. I am shellshocked. I know it's competitor from the outfit. I think I know who it is, but it can't be. Legends don't die. We sit there for a while. 5mins? 30mins? an hours? I don't know. When we start shivering, we decide to go down. Rescue must be on its way. What shocks me the most right then is how despite death, life goes on. We hike back up, coil the ropes, drink tea and we are on our way, as though nothing had happened. One minute we are competing, the next, we are faced with death, the next we are neither. Each are a part of the same reality, yet feel like totally separate realities.<br /><br />On our way back to the parking lot, we finally come across people, starting with fellow competitor Will Mayo, who was coming to look for us. He tells us that the body we discovered was that of world renown solo ice climber Guy Lacelle. He tells us what happened: the party above Guy and his partner, Adam Knoff, triggered an avalanche that whipped Guy 600ft down Silken Falls. How could a man who had soloed climbs people only dream to climb, die on such easy terrain, swiped by an avalanche? We later find out that other people that day had triggered avalanches here and there. The snowpack was unexpectedly extremely reactive. Will adds that my husband Adam hasn't returned yet. Without radio to communicate with each other, we have no way to relay information and find out where people are. I freak out and start hiking faster down the trail. We cross paths with the rescue team, with people competitors who are going back up to give a hand. Eventually, in the distance, I see Adam. I fall into his arms and burst into tears. Tears of relief to see him. Tears of sadness for Guy, for his family and friends.<br /><br />That night, competitors and organizers gather to decide whether the festival should be cancelled. We all know that Guy didn't die ice climbing, but rather in an avalanche. We all know that we will keep climbing ice. We all know that life goes on. And so we all decide that the festival should go on because canceling it would put a huge dark cloud on the sport that we all love so much and because we believe that Guy would have wanted it no other way. Guy loved to climb ice but he also loved to share his passion with others.<br /><br />In a few days, I will be heading down to another ice climbing festival: the Ouray Ice Festival. In memory of Guy, I hope to share my passion with many people and also teach the inherent dangers of ice climbing so that we can all be safer out there. The show must go on.<div><br /><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3GFi8I5qvCtX7GBk7xpWqZcbozuAl7IMYZnqctVXk0msJtqmbqpX55wG5nio8zYHR3dgO37cj6EwXyz-e8crY4L6euVb8_LX8ynNvIjoMOInSHioNVy6G6z9TKQhy_Rw_Zd7Fevio/s400/Majka+Speaking+-30.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428488896890648930" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px; " /></span></div></div></div></div>Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-35873752210149347622009-11-21T13:27:00.000-08:002009-11-22T09:10:18.214-08:00Trinity Right<div style="text-align: justify;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjORYT_6wa8F0GvXYiV_Cy_PNijONMRLI0tFFpN8GXY6OdQywSqwCxlKDRPQFFqsOdXUhj30IFo50ofOYQ58Kyq82O2DFesjt4w6pHNKjNe4TD2WU47opuj8wqmt6XiIurxdhvvge7T/s1600/106025019_small_0a54a5.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 160px; height: 120px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjORYT_6wa8F0GvXYiV_Cy_PNijONMRLI0tFFpN8GXY6OdQywSqwCxlKDRPQFFqsOdXUhj30IFo50ofOYQ58Kyq82O2DFesjt4w6pHNKjNe4TD2WU47opuj8wqmt6XiIurxdhvvge7T/s400/106025019_small_0a54a5.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406672677769561346" border="0" /></a>This Fall, I set my eyes on a 12a trad route in Little Cottonwood Canyon: Trinity Right. I had followed it once last year to clean it after Adam had sent it. The route traverses so much that it even goes down a little and I was terrified following it. The potential for pendulums is what scared me.<br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />A year later, I couldn’t remember the fear, I could only remember how striking the line was: an easy unprotectable start leads to an extremely thin underclinging traverse with no feet. The first pieces – a semi equalized small nut and red C3 - sits at the end of the traverse, 15ft above the ground. That first traverse gave me so much trouble. I could not make that tiny tiny undercling crimper work for me, and with no feet, I couldn’t reach the end of the traverse, where the holds got slightly bigger, but still required lots of body tension. After this little 8ft long traverse, the thin right arching crack offers a few good finger locks, before branching two ways. You can stem there for a few moves until you have to commit to the right crack and lay back, fingers in a thin thin crack, and feet on non existing holds, above thin gear. This is a powerful section, which leads to an overhanging but good rest. From there, the crack becomes overhanging and horizontal, heading sharp right. Again, some really thin and powerful undercling moves with bad feet lead to a positive hand jam in a parallel upper crack. Then, the crack angles slightly down, offering a mix of burly underclinging moves and jams with great gear. One last reachy move enables you to clip the fixed carabiners on the anchor.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK96bBpG_rLivuARR8FUHgxakYzpfA9FVWH5rzTTVuZPtrRUrrZREpYb-nOkLU2GelzOvGPn32EbUJfB-FMP-zyWQ5Ggx7_zmgHDpYZXQgL9GLfVXLzLhAehj5dj6ebDlshiytWEPV/s1600/106025017_medium_e853e2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK96bBpG_rLivuARR8FUHgxakYzpfA9FVWH5rzTTVuZPtrRUrrZREpYb-nOkLU2GelzOvGPn32EbUJfB-FMP-zyWQ5Ggx7_zmgHDpYZXQgL9GLfVXLzLhAehj5dj6ebDlshiytWEPV/s320/106025017_medium_e853e2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406671963603659938" border="0" /></a>Early November, it was a little cold to go climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon's shady Green A Gully. Yet, with a few layers of down jackets on, the climbing was perfect. Granite can be really slippery when it’s a little too warm. On day 1, I had followed Adam's lead to clean it again. It felt like I would need quite a few days to work the route and figure it out. The following day, Adam led the route first and I then led it clipping the preplaced gear and trying to work out the moves. I just couldn’t figure out the first move on the traverse. Maybe I was scared to “go for it” on such small gear – and the only gear above the ground. Adam was patient. Finally, I realized that if I placed my feet way higher on a far left foothold, I could use that tiny undercling that was giving me so much trouble. Next, I had to figure out the powerful layback, which had seemed so hard at first with the lack of footholds. Yet, seeing Adam climbing it, I saw that you could use the left crack for both feet and fingers. Eventually, after hanging to fiddle with with some gear, I committed to the right crack and made it up to the much welcome rest. The thin undercling holds that followed which had seemed so impossible the day before suddenly felt really solid. I stayed with it and made it to the chains. Now, I had to put all the sections together. We cleaned the route and I got right back on it. And sent on the next try. That same day! I was all the more psyched that I have only climbed a handful of times in LCC and am therefore not very familiar with this style of climbing.<br /><br />The route that I thought would be my Fall project and would take me many tries came to me way quicker than I ever thought it would. I was really excited and motivated for more. Yet, winter took over the next day, leaving with me many dreams of other routes in my backyard for next year!<br /><br />PS: am not the one on the pictures!!!<br /></div>Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-62237023628150994082009-10-25T09:13:00.000-07:002009-11-04T16:53:06.344-08:00New Beginnings: Surfing<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFpF8des7VE-GdyBVqApIyt56B2vMSaN9cwT3XztD5OqDvBqOFoDmAv16brWpJAMf5NCK4S0H25XPuKUAFYIUK_-0JqqTfhrmGhBZbGXPv726ZkzVJ7aYhsHe0Xv6SSiIfBtq-hOJl/s1600-h/IMG_0120.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFpF8des7VE-GdyBVqApIyt56B2vMSaN9cwT3XztD5OqDvBqOFoDmAv16brWpJAMf5NCK4S0H25XPuKUAFYIUK_-0JqqTfhrmGhBZbGXPv726ZkzVJ7aYhsHe0Xv6SSiIfBtq-hOJl/s320/IMG_0120.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396670930953482002" border="0" /></a><br />You see the wave swelling the distance. You turn your board to face the shore. You lay down on your board. You start paddling. You look back to make sure the wave is worth paddling for. You look back to make sure the waves isn't going to crash on you. You feel the power of the wave lifting you. Should I stand up now? Am I too late, is it too soon? You try. You get it and you try to stand. You don't and you sit back on the board. Either way, you look back and see the other waves forming. Now, you're too far in to catch the coming waves and you know that they are all going to crash on you. You swim back toward them, duck diving or turtle flipping, each time, to minimize the impact. You swim again toward the next waves, and repeat the motions. Eventually, you're back where you started. Someone asks: " did you catch the wave?". You sit still for a moment, catching your breath, thinking and eventually answer: "Wow, I can't even remember now!"<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpo-7GkrvnZrsBrfJLZVwF31MoB1OADrmGWQClGu3em9LnvoElfwADRYWDbdN81ltxIymr4ofFvcVw7D15-pnwEL-HNU0pHzD6itbYKovrmw_GQgUjk45Vbc-dADQWXwSgzL22Q8qa/s1600-h/IMG_0112.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpo-7GkrvnZrsBrfJLZVwF31MoB1OADrmGWQClGu3em9LnvoElfwADRYWDbdN81ltxIymr4ofFvcVw7D15-pnwEL-HNU0pHzD6itbYKovrmw_GQgUjk45Vbc-dADQWXwSgzL22Q8qa/s320/IMG_0112.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396671646467013122" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Surfing is that intense, it's that "in the moment". There is so much to think about all that once, that for the rookie that I am, it felt completely overwhelming. Paddle, paddle, paddle, watch for people around you, put your hands flat on the board, push up, kick your feet forward, but not too far forward or the nose of your board will dip in and you'll go flying, not too far back either or you'll fall backwards, lower your stance, speard your arms, look in the direction of where you want to go (hmmm.... never felt like I had a choice!), never let go of your board. There is so much going on. You go from sitting calmly on your board, your legs floating in the warm Mexican water, to 100% intensity.<br /><br />I met my friend Sarah in Puerto Vallarta. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik81Ac9UJ6YqyeJXHzeNVgxNXOwGDPuDR869PGKGsdVDrKd8oE0bnHyFg7t6fL06lGDBV4pXrFudC7ZdBoxqWEyMnDByj3VINa69DaTxUBk0ibgWCf0FA-LoPuERJTxzhFgvKl7xzi/s1600-h/P1040824.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik81Ac9UJ6YqyeJXHzeNVgxNXOwGDPuDR869PGKGsdVDrKd8oE0bnHyFg7t6fL06lGDBV4pXrFudC7ZdBoxqWEyMnDByj3VINa69DaTxUBk0ibgWCf0FA-LoPuERJTxzhFgvKl7xzi/s320/P1040824.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396674220191045234" border="0" /></a>We had talked a month back about going somewhere together. Climbing, as always, was the first option. Yet, when she mentionned surfing, I was in. I knew nothing about it, I had never done it and I hadn't taken a non climbing trip in as long as I can remember. After so many AMGA courses and exams back to back and guiding, I was excited to have something else to look forward to. I was also excited to postpone the start of winter and the interaction with the cold. I had always wanted to go to Mexico and it happened to be the cheapest destination. Adam was going hunting with his Dad and brother in New Hampshire. The timing couldn't have been any better.<br /><br />Sarah organized the house rental: a beautiful white Mexican house with two huge bedrooms, an open kitchen with the perfect smoothie blende<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmExBSsYCYmWghfmtZKsw9_Sdm4W4YlBrJA0bysaD44Ck-MXtLaR5KKyy7G5SLQsi0H0Q41vN5kVKUKB4IsRR5h2hQ9zuCEw6vg0AimDJolC8yzSJuVaFnfqP5hajjfbrwKKATWj21/s1600-h/IMG_0110.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmExBSsYCYmWghfmtZKsw9_Sdm4W4YlBrJA0bysaD44Ck-MXtLaR5KKyy7G5SLQsi0H0Q41vN5kVKUKB4IsRR5h2hQ9zuCEw6vg0AimDJolC8yzSJuVaFnfqP5hajjfbrwKKATWj21/s320/IMG_0110.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396671259188466850" border="0" /></a>r, and a bean shaped swimming pool<br />to<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uSFjBZDCGiRf4-1Ue_ORlf0mLqupr_pW3pTvEjbXm62CgZKyqXMFAc8ZPIS9n1dmmI2QRZS9jAZRkdr4VgXkk9w_Ce-9fCo_RZRrd-KCJnigz3SMB_eXz3M7LkJhAmv82T4tVux0/s1600-h/P1040836.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uSFjBZDCGiRf4-1Ue_ORlf0mLqupr_pW3pTvEjbXm62CgZKyqXMFAc8ZPIS9n1dmmI2QRZS9jAZRkdr4VgXkk9w_Ce-9fCo_RZRrd-KCJnigz3SMB_eXz3M7LkJhAmv82T4tVux0/s320/P1040836.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396674224320741442" border="0" /></a> sunbath at. We quickly settled into the following routine: an A.M. surfing session/breakfast/sunbath my the pool/ a P.M. surfing session/ Margaritas with Chips and Salsa/watching sex and the city/Mexican dinner/sleep. Repeat!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8rGu43LFHCngFqsvtFCvOb0erJ9KkP5LAZWCVJAI0ocz4w-tzqRh7ZzuIX2c9pnPoCkTYI9Sq6WIGaZeXGr_icRVCEdgXzWB3c5ULNEadd4-3m3ogXdWobpa0pcuVxV3n9bZyRUoH/s1600-h/P1040816.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8rGu43LFHCngFqsvtFCvOb0erJ9KkP5LAZWCVJAI0ocz4w-tzqRh7ZzuIX2c9pnPoCkTYI9Sq6WIGaZeXGr_icRVCEdgXzWB3c5ULNEadd4-3m3ogXdWobpa0pcuVxV3n9bZyRUoH/s320/P1040816.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396672101697281986" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We rented board from Lily and Carlos at Pazport Surfing School (do go there if you are going to Sayulita. The best deal in town). The first day, Sarah helped me get on the board by pushing it to give me momentum. I think I was blessed with some beginner's luck as I was able to stand up pretty much right away at the beginner waves area. But, that didn't last long.<br /><br />As soon as I headed to the regular break, reality hit hard. Without someone pushing your board, you have to paddle a lot harder and it's really hard to find the perfect timing to get the wave right. I did get a few, but spent a whole day getting owned by the waves. I just couldn't get it right. With my period starting simultaneously, I could have cried. How could I suck so bad? Sarah, in the meantime, was totally crushing it, standing smoothly with her bright turquoise rashguard on her beloved red board, hair in the wind...smooth sailing! That is the great thing about surfing: you can go with people of different levels and still have the time of your life because you're both in it for yourself, yet you can still share in the experience.<br /><br />Luckly for me, the next day was a full on Tropical day with gigantic waves<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndDJMsY8e5HaqyuwT_z9fmcPuzX3NDlTws-FXq5PpZ_DbRwtcFP2F13Qa9f940YZdWm3VQwJg3VIewFOLc1XSA_m6a8FjHr8KuBU93Ep2QwwzDLuiJu7ed2fnfellK77lObWHiBHY/s1600-h/IMG_0139.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndDJMsY8e5HaqyuwT_z9fmcPuzX3NDlTws-FXq5PpZ_DbRwtcFP2F13Qa9f940YZdWm3VQwJg3VIewFOLc1XSA_m6a8FjHr8KuBU93Ep2QwwzDLuiJu7ed2fnfellK77lObWHiBHY/s320/IMG_0139.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396672098900964018" border="0" /></a>and we opted for just watching the pros do what they do. I felt sick to my stomach at the thought of being in those waves: as the crash you can feel the power, the force they carry and getting crushed by them must be horrifying.<br /><br />We woke up early the next morning to get to surf one last time. We were flying out that afternoon and had to catch the 2$ bus back to Puerto Vallarta. It was still dark out as we hiked down the stairs into the still sleepy town and onto the beach. Lily gave me a longer board - 9.6 - which made it a million times easier to catch the waves. The waves came, I paddled hard. And I got it. I got three in row. I would stand up, and wobble heavily until I would totally loose balance and fall. Yet, although I lacked any style, I felt the desire for more. I knew then that I would have to come back.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZg5rI6oEVuOKxt6OFhde5jpdEQYYiWoye-twVR8MPcy-5UUNyAEMsuQpbDrmm_uhTRFF5sAzByiQBriUf57iwnDA8lnXXv_N2fGJ34tla8DN53gEOrIPZFA9zImAfR4A2beD14GFV/s1600-h/IMG_0117.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZg5rI6oEVuOKxt6OFhde5jpdEQYYiWoye-twVR8MPcy-5UUNyAEMsuQpbDrmm_uhTRFF5sAzByiQBriUf57iwnDA8lnXXv_N2fGJ34tla8DN53gEOrIPZFA9zImAfR4A2beD14GFV/s320/IMG_0117.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396672085974739938" border="0" /></a><br /><br />There aren't many activities out there that force you into being fully present. Surfing is definitely one of those sports. As Sarah says, it's not like climbing where you can try a move over and over again, lower, start again. With surfing, it's either you catch the wave or you don't. And you will never get to try that wave again. It's gone, for ever. So you really need to get your act together at exactly the right time. It's an amazing thing to be a beginner at a new sport. A new sport that you fall for that is. It felt so good to have no expectations of myself, just be there, learn, do my best and actually enjoy the process.<br /><br />Now back in SLC, I can still picture the waves swelling, I want to paddle, I want to feel the waves swell below me, I want to push up and stand on the board, and obviously, from the comfort of my chair, I can see myself riding the board all the way into shore... Thank god for the power of visualization! :-) Instead of surfing for real now, I can surf the web in search of the next place to go and get schooled again by the waves. My dream, is to someday, surf a wave while touching the face of the wave with my hand... dreams, dreams, dreams...<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK_kU00vZ3Q9nDrkIbbaL_zkQl04oXCljigW60O1OMV3rlkDIENRC279axnWTcJ14v40iJQwqf1l9Lm3f9KPhlgK1oym0EndbBXw6BKxeRw5oXVmfH4yhnHbaWjQ7UmFacFbvlkzsW/s1600-h/P1040847.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK_kU00vZ3Q9nDrkIbbaL_zkQl04oXCljigW60O1OMV3rlkDIENRC279axnWTcJ14v40iJQwqf1l9Lm3f9KPhlgK1oym0EndbBXw6BKxeRw5oXVmfH4yhnHbaWjQ7UmFacFbvlkzsW/s320/P1040847.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396674917447312946" border="0" /></a>Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-12004124619741297962009-10-15T20:12:00.000-07:002009-10-21T08:49:30.151-07:00Part II: Rock Exam<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="text-decoration: underline;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrqUgH1PbG4qpwNzZ9dN1ZStGGht4TXfWOKVngqn19BR0sW0N882bQ0oqLv7uZ5GWg6H22zOzA0ZhUt23e7_yFnZpMkqegn-oBR1XjktvnB2XBs34lNNe9BErzwBYriJclj5OpaDEe/s1600-h/RRNV-96.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrqUgH1PbG4qpwNzZ9dN1ZStGGht4TXfWOKVngqn19BR0sW0N882bQ0oqLv7uZ5GWg6H22zOzA0ZhUt23e7_yFnZpMkqegn-oBR1XjktvnB2XBs34lNNe9BErzwBYriJclj5OpaDEe/s320/RRNV-96.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394365453808686962" border="0" /></a><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijlipzX2r7Cx0Yr3qYCT3Trg8-rnqfB_6MWy1PFpD33_pMZKC3neCNKNmCH95LfxnSOxEm6gpKs2SP2Qy-eWehZETN4eRFPJ7yAxatfRtmkN4F4jbNcnp98Y9wAJ__lI3ocBF4V28o/s320/RRNV-85.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394877648460953074" /></div><div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><p>Part II: Rock Exam in Red Rocks, Nevada <a href="http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/redrocks.html"><strong></strong></a></p> <p>Transitioning from an Alpine Exam to a Rock Exam isn't so hard. No more snow, no more ice, which means no more snow/ice gear to carry around, no more alpine hazards (crevasses, seracs, white out navigation, etc.), no more camping on snow, no more multiple hour long approaches, no more carrying your living quarters and several days worth of food on your back like a turtle. Of course, you're totally out of climbing shape, with big legs and small arms (hmmm, that actually is never my case). But a month between exams felt just like the right amount of time to rest up, remotivate, and train enough to be at or above the minimum standard: 5.10c trad.</p> <p>The date was set for my friend Jonathon Spitzer and I to leave our respective homes in Salt Lake City and head south on Sept 8th to start our training. The exam was due to start on October 1st and with 22 days at hand, we headed down to Vegas to start the process. One route in 100F shade instantly made us get back in the car and drive on to the coolness of one of California's very hidden treasures: The Needles.</p><p><br /></p> <p>The Needles is a little paradise of splitter, flashy, yellow lichen-covered granite cracks lost in the heart and shade of giant Sequoia trees, miles and miles away from anything. It's an enchanted kingdom given away by the names of the Needles: The Sorcerer, the Witch, the Charlatan, etc. and the routes: Spellbook, Spooky, Spooked Book, to name a few. We spent three days hiking 3 miles in and 3 miles out from the free campground at the trailhead to the base of the climbs, climbing our hearts out. This was the perfect place to get back into rock climbing: all the cracks protect well, the climbing is amazing and we were both motivated to get as much mileage as possible. We totaled 22 pitches in 3 days of climbing.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIral0LvkO8EW3L1fkHbAsCaSYNXrI6miZKU0o7_06CJs1Dezo-N3xAkc1160AucopZWihAoopraQzFXhVIbkiOOgYb1MSHtrVN8abW2DYWYm5NVfPk5HrgBSOF-0PYLF9VngzaSEA/s320/IMG_2885.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394878568998255506" /></p> <p>We used our rest day to drive back to Vegas and get there early enough to get the best spots in the house the 12 exam candidates had rented. Pulling into the driveway reminded me of Wisteria Lane or worse, the Truman Show. I wondered if people really lived in these cookie cutter off-white houses<a href="http://www.nuwireinvestor.com/blogs/investorcentric/uploaded_images/Las-Vegas-Suburb-701089.jpg"><strong></strong></a> or, like everything else in Vegas, was it all for show? Yet, that's what I love about Vegas the most: the extreme contrast between the fake and flashy, and that intense wilderness found within Red Rocks Canyon, just a few miles to the north of Vegas. After days spent bushwhacking in the scrub oaks, boulder hopping in the washes, running down vast multicolored slab systems, climbing on multipitch red, white or varnished sandstone routes while enduring the blazing sun and the relentless heat - even in the shade, it felt soothing to go back to the bright lights, the tamed cleanliness of our neighboorhood, give into the drastic cold of the A/C and wash off the sweat, the stinging leaves and the invading sand off our bodies, share the days adventure with the other housemates and later rest our heads on a clean pillow all while surfing the web and watching Grey's Anatomy. OK, I may sound spoiled.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5VsYlh3gtmDGHO0UbVKAkx6ftCMA3j81FFiN3hCEQvTdto3MQqnGWgCpA5rGmPoXVDdSb20bxdGATM-nPy0R6shrC7VcBBjJbZJvioyMhWVdnMwlcjzF6t3Gr0xPhuy3yriiUX48x/s320/IMG_0048.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394866123118945650" /></p><p>Yet, if you've ever spent weeks at a time in Afghanistan - aka, the campground outside Red Rocks - you'll appreciate all the more what I am talking about.</p> <p class="rtecenter"><img src="http://petzl.com/files/fckfiles/image/petzl_america/News/SPORT/October09/Caroline_portrait.jpg" alt="" height="400" hspace="5" vspace="5" width="300" /><img src="http://petzl.com/files/fckfiles/image/petzl_america/News/SPORT/October09/Caroline_leading.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>Living with 12 people training for an exam can be overwhelming - beta overload, nonstop talk of climbing - but as well, very stimulating.<br />For someone like me who suffers from acute case of FOMO - Fear Of Missing Out - it can be a little hard to manage. So, out of 18 days of training, I only took two days off. When I started crying at the sight of gear, and had to hold on to the railing to walk down the stairs because every bone in my body was screaming out for me to take it easy, I decided to head out to Lake Mead to soak in the water. In past years, it was easy to train. The same routes were used over and over again: Community Pillar, Epinephrine, Triassic Sands, Dark Shadows to the top, Black Orpheus, Solar Slabs, Frigid Air Buttress, Ginger Cracks, etc. Obviously, all candidates would go out and do these routes ahead of time, figuring out how to break down the route down - the goal being that you always try to see your client and the guidebook's recommended belay stances don't always fit that goal - , where to extend anchors, when to transition from one rope to two ropes (with two clients), whether to lower clients or do a prerigged rappel, where to short rope, etc. Having these sections dialed alleviates a lot of the stress on an exam. Yet, it takes away from the examiner's ability to test your onsight skills. So, with word on the street that only "new" routes would be used, we ransacked the place climbing just about every other possible option of routes in the 5.8 to 5.10c range.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV6MHwqQHM_XcSFdwVBLRhAVgFbc6xeB8HkKuAux8pOuRqqF-vqv6jcKFHh6YfOiQ75XPPI_urgaOad0BjsFh7N-qIaSGi64LYJmFXzHEZpNNSLd4bWugIA-GGkY3h9FpLdT8KgVX4/s320/IMG_0045.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394873270010997730" /></p> <p style="text-align: center;">With 100+F temperatures, it was only possible to climb routes in the shade. Joe Stock, Jonathon Spitzer - for both of whom this was the last exam to get the IFMGA certification, aka, The Pin <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span></span><a href="http://www.amga.com/merchandise/merchandise_photos/ifmga_pin.jpg"></a>- and I regrettably ventured one day on a sunny varnished climb. At the end of the day, Joe was showing blisters on all his finger tips from the sizzling black rock. , Not having been able to preview sunny routes, we all started praying that the temperatures would remain high so that we would only climb the shaded route we had previously sussed out during the exam.</p> <p>Yet, Murphy's law ruled again: as we neared the exam, temperatures dropped from 105F to 75F in a day! Now, we were all granted to do routes in the sun, routes we had not done before: there was no way around onsighting. And indeed, out of 6 days of exam, I only got to do one route I had done before: Epinephrine, a 2000ft long sustained 5.9 route in Black Velvet Canyon, which is renown for what the European that I partially am doesn't do: blank varnished chimneys, well...chimneys alltogether. Ok, they are protectable and thankfully, Jonathon and I had stopped to do this route on our way to the Needles. So I was somewhat ready for them. The crux on these exams is that you climb with two single rated ropes in tow and that adds to the weight and to the rope drag. That, plus managing your back pack that is dangling between your legs and leading runout (I didn't bring enough gear) sections on what might as well be 12a in my book, and still pretend that my examiner and the other candidate are my clients and should be treated as such (haul their packs!) was the crux of my exam. A good crux though, one that makes me want to get better at wider climbing.</p><p><br /></p><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrpeUSPEN9gV-uprkTyy4xZ87khVQORYxmUq3rX73e2-mpdumE9t9QTEdM-a85sl9Bb8hdZzbXwEp_uxu-5CgAqhImH5pgk1-QfRfH9xxzus6A6_SKR_umKwPAlQGxCDPuyDPhISkK/s1600-h/IMG_0065.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrpeUSPEN9gV-uprkTyy4xZ87khVQORYxmUq3rX73e2-mpdumE9t9QTEdM-a85sl9Bb8hdZzbXwEp_uxu-5CgAqhImH5pgk1-QfRfH9xxzus6A6_SKR_umKwPAlQGxCDPuyDPhISkK/s320/IMG_0065.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395068930016206610" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p>Day one of the exam, all the candidates went sport climbing to get tested on our climbing abilities. My group of four - Josh Beckner, Mark Smiley, Chris Werner and myself - headed out with our examiners - Marc Chauvin and Dale Remsberg (the same examiners I had on my alpine exam) to The Gallery at the Second Pullout off the Loop road. The goal was to climb 7 pitches with at least one route at the standard. If we could onsight the classic slightly overrated 5.11d Yaak Crack, we would only have to climb 5 routes. Since we all onsighted the route, our day ended early enough for us to get ready for the following four days. The third day was cancelled due to a huge wind storm that ripped through Vegas with 77mph winds. In exchange for our rest day, we were assigned a bigger day the following day. Mark Chauvin assigned Mark Smiley and Myster Z to Nightcrawler to the Hourglass Diversion, down the Gunsight notch, which awarded us with 13 pitches of climbing, some bushwhacking, lots of walking, some interesting claustrophobic tunnelling and a hike out with my Petzl e+LITE<a href="http://petzl.com/us/outdoor/headlamps/signal-and-elite/elite"><strong></strong></a> headlamp showing the way. The last day, Mark and I were assigned Cat in the Hat with Dale. Dale is a 5.12/13 climber, who, on that day, was playing the role of a 5.5 climber getting on his first ever multipitch. Upon reaching the base of this very popular climb, we heard voices of several teams gearing up to get on the climb. What to do? We didn't have the whole guidebook with us, we had a "weak" client along, options were really limited. I pulled the "it's our last day on our rock exam, we are all guides" card and thankfully, it worked. Did I mention how grateful we were to these two parties for letting us pass? The alternative would have been a really bad/stressful way to end the last day on this rock exam.</p> <p class="rtecenter" style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://petzl.com/files/fckfiles/image/petzl_america/News/SPORT/October09/follow.jpg" alt="" height="300" hspace="5" vspace="5" width="400" /></p> <p>After a quick debrief back at the campground with our examiners, we all got ready to do what Vegas is really known for: partying into the wee hours of the morning. Adam - my husband and I - had rented a cheap - 19$ room right on Fremont - aka Freakmont - street to make sure we could indulge guiltlessly in the Vegas experience. We celebrated the end of our exam, which meant for Joe Stock and Jonathon Spitzer getting their IFMGA certification. But we also celebrated Adam's Pin, which he had just received two weeks earlier after completing his alpine exam in the Cascades.</p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7zBqIHMFdomgwlD47ZyDpWjoguijPdr7O8QMM_wE24cgsTPjnuEjIS78RlvMVKDTiKeoNCzqmjRyvCHabD7HdFBs-WCuE9IND9GwgwA7xu_8X2fffJMPa3c0GmGd8RyM378biflf/s320/IMG_2884.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394880237221226994" style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEqty9iVE4TKzv0t2NAhY90GP2i9a33N8HbdYIOYf-IEVoZlr4CsaXdbHCEzk9lH_jMBMeoWJW_4Pc0u7LUifsALtQUfLkAPUuu_PNab4-ft5NUUNNnICye2c0rJ9z3vC5S3y750Js/s1600-h/IMG_2872.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEqty9iVE4TKzv0t2NAhY90GP2i9a33N8HbdYIOYf-IEVoZlr4CsaXdbHCEzk9lH_jMBMeoWJW_4Pc0u7LUifsALtQUfLkAPUuu_PNab4-ft5NUUNNnICye2c0rJ9z3vC5S3y750Js/s320/IMG_2872.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394881903588387938" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></p> <p>We drove back to snow in Salt Lake City. Winter is now right around the corner. And it'll soon be time for me to start focusing on my last exam: the ski. With two exams down in a little over a month, I am now secretly hoping that maybe, sometime sooner than later, will come the time for me to celebrate my own IFMGA pin. Sweet dreams are made of these...</p><p>Thanks to Joe Stock and Christopher Wright for some of the pictures...</p><p>Check out <a href="http://www.stockalpine.com/photos/training-for-the-amga-rock-guide-exam/">Joe's website</a> for more pictures of the exam and Christopher Wright's <a href="http://nowclimbing.com/2009/09/28/still-red-rocking-adventure-punks-mini-trip-report/">blog</a> for a full story of Adventure Punks</p></div></div>Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-1486524791778359592009-09-27T18:18:00.000-07:002009-10-15T20:10:13.158-07:00Alpine Exam<div id="header"> <!-- begin: main navigation #nav --><br /><!-- END : HIERARCHIE - FIL D'ARIANE --> </div><!-- END:HEADER --> <!-- !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! end: main navigation !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! --> <!-- Layout --><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Lows and high of becoming a mountain guide<br /><br />Part I: Alpine Exam<br /></span></span> <p>As I flew back to Seattle from a summer of guiding in Europe in early August, I was really excited to explore a little more of the Cascades and check out some the routes we were going to do. I called my friend Willie Benegas to see what his plans were. He said he was going with Craig Luebben to climb the unfamed Torrent-Forbidden traverse in Boston Basin starting the following day. I told him I would come along. Since the weather didn't look great, I bailed on them and instead headed to Leavenworth with Forest McBrian - another guide and fellow candidate.</p> <p><img alt="" src="http://petzl.com/files/fckfiles/image/petzl_america/News/SPORT/September09/Forbidden.jpg" align="left" height="225" hspace="5" vspace="5" width="300" />The weather was beautiful that day and I started regretting not going on the climb with Willie and Craig, as there was a great chance of us doing this route on the exam. I had gone on it the year before with my husband, Adam, and had hated the sheer looseness of the climb. I thought then that I didn't need to do this climb twice and that I would just onsight it on an exam if I had to, but had no interest in doing it for myself and he had bailed.</p> <p>I called Willie after coming down from the Dragontail in Leavenworth to check on how it had gone for them. I teased him, hoping for him to say that they had not been able to climb it because of the rain. Yet, he uttered in a faint voice and with his strong Argentinian accent: "No, there has been accident. Craig is dead". I couldn't grasp what he was saying. I must have misunderstood. I had him repeat the unthinkable. Craig Luebben - AMGA instructor, guide, mentor to many, creator of the Big Bros, writer of books, father and husband - had fallen with one of his favorite elements - ice - and had been killed by it? And Willie suffered injuries to one leg? I couldn't wrap my head around it. I was meant to have been with them that day, on that climb. I hadn't gone. What if I had gone with them? What if...</p> <p>The news spread like fire. All the candidates on the Alpine Exam and the examiners were shell-shoked. Craig was meant to retake his exams to get his Alpine Certification with Dale Remsberg and this was the reason he had been up there that day, to train. Willie was meant to be on the exam with us, and now he wasn't going to be there, leaving a loud void within the group. It was all very eerie. The tone for the exam was set: be aware, be conservative with the terrain. The exam started with a minute of silence for Craig and his family. A great loss we all acknowledged. A reminder of our mortality, especially up there in the mountains. With a very warm summer in the northwest this summer - temps broke a historical 100F! - conditions, as we would soon witness - had rapidly deteriorated in the mountains.</p> <p><img alt="" src="http://petzl.com/files/fckfiles/image/petzl_america/News/SPORT/September09/Sharkfin-Tower.jpg" align="left" height="267" hspace="5" vspace="5" width="200" />Our group of four candidates - Dave Ahrens, Ben Mitchell, Ian Nicholson and myself - along with our examiners - Dale Remsberg and Marc Chauvin - headed up into Boston Basin, home to the Mount Torment, Forbidden Peak, Sharkin Tower, Boston Peak and Sahale. We were instantly shocked by how dry conditions were. Out of respect for Craig, the Torment Forbidden Traverse no longer was an option. We therefore headed up and over the crazily chossy Sharkin Col to camp on a col at the base of the north ridge of Forbidden. The following day, we did crevasse rescue on the glacier and went and scoped out the following day's objective. On Day 4 (Day 1 was spent doing movement skills exams on rock: climbing a 5.10 route in shoes, 5.8 in boots and 4 class terrain speed traveling at Mount Eerie), we woke up early to climb the NW face of Forbidden (Ben, Dale and I), while Ian, Dave and Marc climbed the North Rib of Forbidden - a parallel buttress.</p> <p>Crossing the moat that morning was one of those intensely scary experiences, where you feel that you should not be where you are: the only place to cross was on a thin rib of rather soft snow barely touching the rock and hanging over 500ft of void. Gloups. The once NW face of Forbidden was now a few pitches of ice, leading to broken rock and more ice. The mountain was a mere the image of itself. I led most of the day that day since I hadn't lead on Day 2. Day 5, we climbed Sharfin Tower and left Boston Basin. The initial plan had been to swap areas with the other group - Dawn Glanc, Forest McBrian, Danny Ulhmann, Keith Garvey and Tom Hargis. They were in the Marble Creek Cirque, climbing the west arete of Eldorado and Early Morning Spire.</p> <p>Yet, moats were also very dangerous there and they had almost all gotten killed by a car size boulder which fell right where they were standing only a few minutes earlier. Going in there was no longer an option. So we headed to Washington Pass, a much welcome trade-off, where beautiful weather and granite spires greeted us. Our program consisted of Cutthroat, South Early Winter Spire, Liberty Bell's NW face, and Spontaneity Arete on the Petit Cheval. One more day of climbing around Bellingham and it was all over already.</p> <p><img alt="" src="http://petzl.com/files/fckfiles/image/petzl_america/News/SPORT/September09/Crevasse-Rescue.jpg" align="left" height="225" hspace="5" vspace="5" width="300" />Time on the exam flew by with climbing, prepping for the next days climbs, writing tour plans, stress (although our examiners did an amazing job at mitigating that aspect of the exam), driving to and from places. With this year's new rule, we now had to wait for the results. Our examiners prepared us for what to expect, yet until you see it in print, you just can't be a 100% sure that you passed. For the "instant reward" kinda girl that I am, there just isn't much more frustrating.</p> <p>The sound of my new iPhone resonates in my car. It's Ian Nicholson, one of my partners on our August 16-26th 2009 Alpine Exam: "Caroline, I am so happy! I passed!!!" he exclaims. Wait a minute, I wonder. How does he know. Lucky for us: the results have been published earlier than planned! I am one click away from finding out. And there it is...</p> <p>As I scroll down the my.amga.com page, the word "Pass", written next to "Alpine Exam" has never yet shone so brightly. Excitement and pride translate into a big wide grin on my face. I am one step closer! Closer to what? Well, to have this lifelong dream of mine come true: that of becoming an IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations) certified guide, a world-wide recognized mountain guide.</p> <p>Next? As I write these words, I am in the midst of unpacking from this exam and packing for my next one: the rock exam in Vegas. After that, I'll consider signing up for the ski exam next spring. But right now, I am just happy with having come this far. One step at a time, and now, one exam at a time...</p>Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-52377622549833609312009-05-17T14:48:00.000-07:002015-03-17T08:50:57.471-07:00Valdez - A dream come trueAfter a great trip to Alps, I flew to Anchorage, AK with Adam. Both he and I respectively had AMGA exams and advanced courses to take(www.amga.com) My friend Angela Hawse had been waiting for me there for a few days because I had had to postpone my flight there due to some health issues (see Les Droites entry).<br />
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Yet, as soon as I got there, we drove 6hours from Anchorage to Valdez - the world's heliski mecca - to start checking out the terrain we were going to be examined on. And this is what we found...<br />
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Long story short (will let the pictures speak for themselves), this course made my dreams of becoming an aspirant guide a reality. After taking the advanced alpine and rock this past fall and the level III AIARE course in March, this was the missing piece to the puzzle. This has been a very dear dream of mine. I have had to fight for this dream and believe in it in ways I had never before had to. It's been the most amazing journey, one filled with hope, happiness, sadness, deep grief and sorrow, challenges, learning experiences, amazing travels, and mostly amazing people. I am greatful for it ALL. I am greatful for having believed and for people who believed in me.<br />
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I am now so excited for the journey ahead. I am still a ways away from getting the full certification but for now, I am just happy to be where I'm at...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKvDzCtNK9LXv_QrTBgptZrvCjmtZP0svul2ZbTb_mOwN753e9ylYRpMNGq9aSAo4guv_W1wTYQlQRmD0AwwdujKTevWDtM1J0Y4dRoOJhPySXrB_I6HzR0-I67jsLKxNtMoIbvxdR/s1600-h/P1010963.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKvDzCtNK9LXv_QrTBgptZrvCjmtZP0svul2ZbTb_mOwN753e9ylYRpMNGq9aSAo4guv_W1wTYQlQRmD0AwwdujKTevWDtM1J0Y4dRoOJhPySXrB_I6HzR0-I67jsLKxNtMoIbvxdR/s320/P1010963.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345802127394067442" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a>Berlin Wall<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh13mS10hh3T5pn21ksEbhnJ7Vh856DTrpgCWZe0WG_cpAk6bYoAzIsYYJ8_GEetog1aY_Rb8EsWXQakiUGkjhunCgYSVKJp6RjVKQ2CXQrPr2elHLS0eV1iIWeoeqwzZpsb4m0y1sE/s1600-h/P1010983.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh13mS10hh3T5pn21ksEbhnJ7Vh856DTrpgCWZe0WG_cpAk6bYoAzIsYYJ8_GEetog1aY_Rb8EsWXQakiUGkjhunCgYSVKJp6RjVKQ2CXQrPr2elHLS0eV1iIWeoeqwzZpsb4m0y1sE/s320/P1010983.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345805222278675154" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a>While training, we got baseline information regarding the snowpack. The black line is the ash layer from when Mount Redoubt erupted late March. Impressive. This layer however made for really poor skiing, when, a few days later, it came to the surface on southerly aspects.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig74h7GcFFG5E7NkT1Y8P_u3bsyzLGuAtEZKS5Qn8plFfNUidfbqIyLMtpKEYshwlV1cs1IXe5lAmboB4SmAoDepypFciGz3OwEqAvEA9PrXxeu07xed8e2ny440H01Aiw3QxF_NQ4/s1600-h/P1010992.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig74h7GcFFG5E7NkT1Y8P_u3bsyzLGuAtEZKS5Qn8plFfNUidfbqIyLMtpKEYshwlV1cs1IXe5lAmboB4SmAoDepypFciGz3OwEqAvEA9PrXxeu07xed8e2ny440H01Aiw3QxF_NQ4/s320/P1010992.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808201988937010" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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The Worthington Glacier<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMrTqbT7Bxb17Xr-6fQmQSOIOnPcRu0mAMVifYZEh7qAXYwHnzZldUpabWrKnWtxuyK8yH47XgrO58mPYcldPe32_l1ZJmWSmGasH1NC2cap7XPqc6HTmYFT88VUGh9EvXn_HfEgB/s1600-h/P1020014.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMrTqbT7Bxb17Xr-6fQmQSOIOnPcRu0mAMVifYZEh7qAXYwHnzZldUpabWrKnWtxuyK8yH47XgrO58mPYcldPe32_l1ZJmWSmGasH1NC2cap7XPqc6HTmYFT88VUGh9EvXn_HfEgB/s320/P1020014.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808207337838802" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Eric Larsen building a sled, training for our sled lower drill<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguiAnpDgaN6JeD_sD1d-gZvbpg1Ql9xM1l7ZNVrAHVzZpQRl18ftjR-U0LVFFWeHxX8CPMUK5JTlFHzTYvPHjWEIvSxe8F7p3mCpBzbhyW77F_5YQo_ZUHyGEz2ECk_DrSgMzIiRr7/s1600-h/P1020023.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguiAnpDgaN6JeD_sD1d-gZvbpg1Ql9xM1l7ZNVrAHVzZpQRl18ftjR-U0LVFFWeHxX8CPMUK5JTlFHzTYvPHjWEIvSxe8F7p3mCpBzbhyW77F_5YQo_ZUHyGEz2ECk_DrSgMzIiRr7/s320/P1020023.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345810266186195314" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Skiing through seracs on the so called 27mile glacier<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHWfE00YPMXEHMIGxfnHeL_10LZIp9uCW4oLr88eInK_9d5OcZcZVNOx0VLVP7jVennCeV6tSmavA5V5DBUwNvLn-WoPsonA3Jmckj7KvpV5SgQ2frUU_MoXjUC0hPmLaYPc_XG0yP/s1600-h/P1020061.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHWfE00YPMXEHMIGxfnHeL_10LZIp9uCW4oLr88eInK_9d5OcZcZVNOx0VLVP7jVennCeV6tSmavA5V5DBUwNvLn-WoPsonA3Jmckj7KvpV5SgQ2frUU_MoXjUC0hPmLaYPc_XG0yP/s320/P1020061.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345810266051380706" style="cursor: pointer; height: 180px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Getting a ride back to the car on a Harley... in Alaska, the law is that the passenger needs to wear a helmet, but not the driver of the bike... no comment!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjTMKzzRyU7KbZxMUaevhRFi77jJ3McIRjYZ2ayu6dAOJ96eHYWnQVN3MHhrc0MZ1Bzb4xD-PY82BJcrgT18u5gs6jIGFMac4u2WtpVa4tCU7ZjXFza-n3qBg7Lw6IVAaEcFOFHFXc/s1600-h/P1010973.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjTMKzzRyU7KbZxMUaevhRFi77jJ3McIRjYZ2ayu6dAOJ96eHYWnQVN3MHhrc0MZ1Bzb4xD-PY82BJcrgT18u5gs6jIGFMac4u2WtpVa4tCU7ZjXFza-n3qBg7Lw6IVAaEcFOFHFXc/s320/P1010973.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345805217650120402" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a>Skiing down the mighty Cherry Couloir on Python Peak.... holy steepness!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNGieg91gBsnl6-a_l6jhnHsVy8eW-6bDLAWWAVGHfsOAoZYz1ZWHeRWl6hv9XrXAliE7-su-1yl5lPkdLcFavrdaTimBMC8Mm3rpbuIM3Zhv7K1jcD4vsxnCbKoCXrpi0k0Vu3ptp/s1600-h/P1020071.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNGieg91gBsnl6-a_l6jhnHsVy8eW-6bDLAWWAVGHfsOAoZYz1ZWHeRWl6hv9XrXAliE7-su-1yl5lPkdLcFavrdaTimBMC8Mm3rpbuIM3Zhv7K1jcD4vsxnCbKoCXrpi0k0Vu3ptp/s320/P1020071.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345814325267144290" style="cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 240px;" /></a><br />
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The Cherry Couloir on Python Peak<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Pad-DrR-kzoo6fhVuddyj-Zqsa_TAFuHQyqczCcI2K5zkypQc7k5PX4XMW6hMK8AoGa1cm1XZu0yRg8AFNqSRJTYLEjhHzpq3uprh13QuFDMXoRJ1mcHnzlo1O-Izlcsl0bCLgIg/s1600-h/P1020083.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Pad-DrR-kzoo6fhVuddyj-Zqsa_TAFuHQyqczCcI2K5zkypQc7k5PX4XMW6hMK8AoGa1cm1XZu0yRg8AFNqSRJTYLEjhHzpq3uprh13QuFDMXoRJ1mcHnzlo1O-Izlcsl0bCLgIg/s320/P1020083.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345824174815501666" style="cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 240px;" /></a><br />
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Our instructor, Howie Schwartz making radio contact on the Worthington Glacier<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBpm746Oi2kgA-77CXxtJDQIkkDB5EFxSS4eourGA15BWR5Mh3MSCcw5NNUo1BoJB2O5mYNGR8nslLr0KDDRVFJKI6uXn6ehXzGdrI8oiYOF6WkrB25crUURBV2Hy9KK4KG6i6-deA/s1600-h/P1020095.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBpm746Oi2kgA-77CXxtJDQIkkDB5EFxSS4eourGA15BWR5Mh3MSCcw5NNUo1BoJB2O5mYNGR8nslLr0KDDRVFJKI6uXn6ehXzGdrI8oiYOF6WkrB25crUURBV2Hy9KK4KG6i6-deA/s320/P1020095.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345814328711483538" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Crevasse rescue training<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgksUp5X_sl3copksYxZbFNLxTj3IRE81G6y9168Y_9WzD9B_ifVmUqu9sLcwEywGnJ8_B8P2Jd6auL2EJlYNpeMTZ0UeAPHK9KAPbxS7I3xa-riKAzaJiJ3U3KVUtr_jQNQDMbImPg/s1600-h/P1020097.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgksUp5X_sl3copksYxZbFNLxTj3IRE81G6y9168Y_9WzD9B_ifVmUqu9sLcwEywGnJ8_B8P2Jd6auL2EJlYNpeMTZ0UeAPHK9KAPbxS7I3xa-riKAzaJiJ3U3KVUtr_jQNQDMbImPg/s320/P1020097.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345814338251674626" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Time to fly... we flew into a remote area of the range for a three day traverse with all our camping and skiing gear on our backs<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZW0xqKzzxIyLiJVlYfkO5Sq89Moa0e_xtxhedmWhAaaDVA35RgzGNZjIZYRH9iRQ9jFEKfUyqmn3M7rC3PIlvQPQIPXGe1nHk4wl6FsQ7VgtTPh8y0oo8J0gaIja1mDdcs_3eUyXe/s1600-h/3253_79714372012_711472012_1845891_7545950_n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZW0xqKzzxIyLiJVlYfkO5Sq89Moa0e_xtxhedmWhAaaDVA35RgzGNZjIZYRH9iRQ9jFEKfUyqmn3M7rC3PIlvQPQIPXGe1nHk4wl6FsQ7VgtTPh8y0oo8J0gaIja1mDdcs_3eUyXe/s320/3253_79714372012_711472012_1845891_7545950_n.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345831409308029874" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Where we were dropped off<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjtOb5ZZJRNaTlBF1xF6wNu9SA6dhIb2rBsOAJR7Mz0htk_rNUfOzZO-zAx3tzLWQDEaKJx9E1k6OxhuhKF9oImd8VIm8BdHMqapPVWUQD1roJrzu1L794zvLn74AwiHfVYyvRN7KM/s1600-h/P1020099.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjtOb5ZZJRNaTlBF1xF6wNu9SA6dhIb2rBsOAJR7Mz0htk_rNUfOzZO-zAx3tzLWQDEaKJx9E1k6OxhuhKF9oImd8VIm8BdHMqapPVWUQD1roJrzu1L794zvLn74AwiHfVYyvRN7KM/s320/P1020099.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345824184921413058" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Beautiful ridge climb<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_xD5Mt31ur-q9_oI8kebLIpmvw9Ccu6H5tW9CgBbYbWSQ80qdi8S9UCRHhkietUKojTcH1bQUjWNrZmtJSnHlUMoTDa1ywuvXT5Dzj7rtCLutmnaqPdtqE3amTc27noGOHBs3FKv/s1600-h/P1020110.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_xD5Mt31ur-q9_oI8kebLIpmvw9Ccu6H5tW9CgBbYbWSQ80qdi8S9UCRHhkietUKojTcH1bQUjWNrZmtJSnHlUMoTDa1ywuvXT5Dzj7rtCLutmnaqPdtqE3amTc27noGOHBs3FKv/s320/P1020110.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345826433280020498" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Camping on day 1 of the traverse with Angela Hawse on a nice and flat rock<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX4s1FKbXA8m-ApKo5qW8M5JLfBW7Plz0vO5k1XAHZL94jswyvuv5j7gOpXDFRVFSeWfeDkXmUrWwFkrIbc6Ue022-KIiM2kNXsVw0Akp_W1Z9u0-KYB09CANDf4fj6Q583yBB_63C/s1600-h/3253_79714407012_711472012_1845898_4726698_n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX4s1FKbXA8m-ApKo5qW8M5JLfBW7Plz0vO5k1XAHZL94jswyvuv5j7gOpXDFRVFSeWfeDkXmUrWwFkrIbc6Ue022-KIiM2kNXsVw0Akp_W1Z9u0-KYB09CANDf4fj6Q583yBB_63C/s320/3253_79714407012_711472012_1845898_4726698_n.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345881629551383394" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Inside the tent<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfEL84ubR9XwvzU7ynAEIjMx8837AvR6ViqziuiMF_ji4ZaXsXEjJq5qtsYMOZRYr8_4lQ2ah8R_esXgv-YLfkp5Efn02NSJ_mtQghjRh5s9jkjrQO-nN1Ir8dgFhSfilRyvQMAz0x/s1600-h/3253_79714417012_711472012_1845900_915109_n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfEL84ubR9XwvzU7ynAEIjMx8837AvR6ViqziuiMF_ji4ZaXsXEjJq5qtsYMOZRYr8_4lQ2ah8R_esXgv-YLfkp5Efn02NSJ_mtQghjRh5s9jkjrQO-nN1Ir8dgFhSfilRyvQMAz0x/s320/3253_79714417012_711472012_1845900_915109_n.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345881631978190514" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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The neverending Tonsina Glacier... miles and miles of flat... gotta love that...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXOevhTs_dJo32ZU5BZuqcxraOQSWPbEacuoA_-VUI6NUpZuR4-JMc_IT-lSeV_JgyeX1smz1YUjg3QqAFkWmS25FTtR4QOEvQQUbvXWY-oiMQENi7ZnKEkLMtn6rR6yrrOzHRtI8r/s1600-h/3253_79714422012_711472012_1845901_3382858_n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXOevhTs_dJo32ZU5BZuqcxraOQSWPbEacuoA_-VUI6NUpZuR4-JMc_IT-lSeV_JgyeX1smz1YUjg3QqAFkWmS25FTtR4QOEvQQUbvXWY-oiMQENi7ZnKEkLMtn6rR6yrrOzHRtI8r/s320/3253_79714422012_711472012_1845901_3382858_n.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345831403323164274" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Forest and I getting our evening debrief on day 2 of the traverse and day 1 of our exams. We are hiding from the blistering sun in the tent<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkjUQW3loT5D4UecCTIGUVOGkXvavBFn1Hi9FxP_qOkkRY-XxzmPL_7mz4F8WbRbWuJHzb0i3onXx_MEg_sirgtQxg9T0425p2H8hs_dQB3GJNSRjhvJ35ba4VXt3UEV10mA1VvPe1/s1600-h/3253_79714447012_711472012_1845904_804110_n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkjUQW3loT5D4UecCTIGUVOGkXvavBFn1Hi9FxP_qOkkRY-XxzmPL_7mz4F8WbRbWuJHzb0i3onXx_MEg_sirgtQxg9T0425p2H8hs_dQB3GJNSRjhvJ35ba4VXt3UEV10mA1VvPe1/s320/3253_79714447012_711472012_1845904_804110_n.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345882255753576050" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Our camp below Hoodoo Col<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYzp9HcmarOSXspE5CSvsFSEyYItjm-kBnFog0u_0wxA5oqpBN_oIkediFMkLYvf-fVOPwf3ldk-w46haWv1e_dJ7uCibjkkJKe365CjfBHgQyrO_rMIrPZY-fBsEwS_WdwVbOa2BY/s1600-h/P1020121.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYzp9HcmarOSXspE5CSvsFSEyYItjm-kBnFog0u_0wxA5oqpBN_oIkediFMkLYvf-fVOPwf3ldk-w46haWv1e_dJ7uCibjkkJKe365CjfBHgQyrO_rMIrPZY-fBsEwS_WdwVbOa2BY/s320/P1020121.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345828982383255698" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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View on Girls Mountain and the Hoodoo Glacier... gorgeous. last day of the three day traverse<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIisOIEr5Pe14hbVvS6gt_V5o2BBWQCk7PtalRcAI_3XC5apt_IxS4HT4kiRkFPdjTLVRHQ93gFSTrINx_sFlZoLbUu5BbnRit9XhNlWldI3b66vGnlKCFOmx5bnjqaz1OUkZWklM3/s1600-h/3253_79714462012_711472012_1845907_2943173_n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIisOIEr5Pe14hbVvS6gt_V5o2BBWQCk7PtalRcAI_3XC5apt_IxS4HT4kiRkFPdjTLVRHQ93gFSTrINx_sFlZoLbUu5BbnRit9XhNlWldI3b66vGnlKCFOmx5bnjqaz1OUkZWklM3/s320/3253_79714462012_711472012_1845907_2943173_n.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345882260758898498" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Climbing up to Girls Mountain<br />
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Communicating bearsCaroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-48029584214922935092009-05-15T20:19:00.000-07:002009-05-16T09:33:08.412-07:00Les Droites - La GinatIt's Sunday morning, and my flight back to Salt Lake City, and then on to Alaska leaves Tuesday. The weather is looking awesome. Conditions are great all over the Alps. Big north faces are fat. I feels like I don't have much time to spare to actually go climb any north face, much less the north face of the Droites.<br /><br />The north face of the Droites, located on the Argentiere Basin in Chamonix, France, is a 1000m long ice and mixed route that tops out at a notch right below this 4001meter peak. It's described as very austere and cold and requiring outstanding training. Growing up in the Alps and having climbed the classic great north faces -Eiger, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Piz Badile - the Droites was really the last one I was looking forward to climbing. I was however not alone with this desire. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8u_y6R6QttWndEjlkGV7x0IYsMMHE1rimPJasILYSMu2N9JbiNYeWA9T5H56PgxU8YtqOfpKmDqmEvswWFp2rXR6xwXLQCjXW74u9YeSaOEOCQekuOb4jVV9DIwjcEiQ51gck5ogZ/s1600-h/P1010880.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8u_y6R6QttWndEjlkGV7x0IYsMMHE1rimPJasILYSMu2N9JbiNYeWA9T5H56PgxU8YtqOfpKmDqmEvswWFp2rXR6xwXLQCjXW74u9YeSaOEOCQekuOb4jVV9DIwjcEiQ51gck5ogZ/s320/P1010880.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336440568009420690" /></a><br />We arrived at the top of the Grands Montets cable car to find 20 other climbers ready to spend the night on the drafty hallways' cold damp concrete floor. He looked at other people's gear, tried to catch parts of their conversations to figure out where each one was going. Word on the mountain was that a lot of people were camping at the base of the Ginat to get a head start and 8 of us from the cable car were going on the Ginat. We decided on a 2am start. <br /><br />With our skinny short heavy skis, we tried to ski in the dark with our mountain climbing boot, but conditions on the traverse to the base were pretty icy and walking seemed like a faster solution. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3HwRTdKP-HXaISlsdX_deQVGGecCYEKkVa5ovtHAf8JkjEu78NjscDVe3EBdhkjnBJ-YTmUrfGW8fbETnwEJLQJ2ZfS_G6EKMmbHT-6K06DdyHnoqsG_DP0f_MuR5yRYqPQSuLnsQ/s1600-h/P1010885.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3HwRTdKP-HXaISlsdX_deQVGGecCYEKkVa5ovtHAf8JkjEu78NjscDVe3EBdhkjnBJ-YTmUrfGW8fbETnwEJLQJ2ZfS_G6EKMmbHT-6K06DdyHnoqsG_DP0f_MuR5yRYqPQSuLnsQ/s320/P1010885.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336442071867747170" /></a> Already, we were regretting having brought them along with us. Nearing the base, we saw that three parties were already on the wall and more parties were coming up from the glacier and from the cable car. Although this is an ice climb - 1000m of it - no one thought twice about the ice climbing rule: never climb below another another party for fear of getting hammered by ice. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic3Y5KDmvT0mBUGgthCS9KOKX45t949p5GOg0TAbdA6i2gGUXrFBxPers8eIcfvqozVRohm3yLGMxdQw2JgFltMcLvkEi01Y3fgA7r8nZbSo1aBmZEYQ5i_FxdUjXvsV_k2m2JwT-9/s1600-h/P1010886.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic3Y5KDmvT0mBUGgthCS9KOKX45t949p5GOg0TAbdA6i2gGUXrFBxPers8eIcfvqozVRohm3yLGMxdQw2JgFltMcLvkEi01Y3fgA7r8nZbSo1aBmZEYQ5i_FxdUjXvsV_k2m2JwT-9/s320/P1010886.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336443807153691426" /></a> <br />all went along, trying to be courteous with each other, climbing over each others ropes, clipping into each other's gear. The real Chamonix experience... <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDsNOCKE7g78RsF3Mki4QQYBR75C2Kk0VpO9OWEHm0sO1hJN8P-16q9KVZId8uWTvFlPJzxtsPe-7BgS8-6rXQeOQ0HR2ZMlA0QrsdAZA0lo41pUZEYyQZ0D5uxcvnRbEv9qWWNLc/s1600-h/P1010904.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDsNOCKE7g78RsF3Mki4QQYBR75C2Kk0VpO9OWEHm0sO1hJN8P-16q9KVZId8uWTvFlPJzxtsPe-7BgS8-6rXQeOQ0HR2ZMlA0QrsdAZA0lo41pUZEYyQZ0D5uxcvnRbEv9qWWNLc/s320/P1010904.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336445299919334738" /></a><br />the face suddenly no longer felt cold or austere for that matter. We simul-climbed most of the way to the head wall and pitched out the upper section to the notch. Conditions on the mountain were outstanding. The climb had been done so much that it was all hooked out and the ice wasn't so brittle, which helped with moving faster. <br /><br />Once at the notch, we did 10-15 rappels down the couloir to the glacier below. This is when the crux of the climb really started. We strapped our little skinny skis on and started down the 2500m left to Chamonix. The snow however was isothermic with a slight refreeze on top (which didn't hold our weight), which made turning impossible. So, we resorted to doing super long traverses with kickturns at each end. Brutal. We must have done over a thousand of them! or so it felt. We laughed and cried the whole way. I was desperately hoping that once we'd hit the Mer de Glace, things would get smoother. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLE9g8Sh0j9-luN-4VkcxUd39PaTDosUZSFG3WqfG25wLSmaMShWuejMj_Q2gHM6vkHnmO3SbXMTah86sGhrrvNsFvmjH0LQM03GMLDGrX8yvpak1tiPA9g78pqomqagCLaodJowjN/s1600-h/P1010907.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLE9g8Sh0j9-luN-4VkcxUd39PaTDosUZSFG3WqfG25wLSmaMShWuejMj_Q2gHM6vkHnmO3SbXMTah86sGhrrvNsFvmjH0LQM03GMLDGrX8yvpak1tiPA9g78pqomqagCLaodJowjN/s320/P1010907.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336455392056413090" /></a><br /><br />But no! we hit refrozen deep ski tracks, which made even snowplowing impossible. I push on, while Adam opted for walking, skis in hand and we were going just as fast the one as the other! Grrrr. As we kept going, the snow softened a bit. It was almost enjoyable. When suddenly, Adam decided to cross what he thought was ice, but really was a deep puddle of water! I mean, could anything go worse! A week earlier, we had skied down all the way to Chamonix and as we reached the "Buvette" to start going down the trail to Chamonix, we realized it had all melted out! Haaaaahaaaa! With endless frustration, we put our skis on our packs for the last time, switched our brain on off to stop feeling the pain, and sucked it up, walking all the way down to Chamonix. <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-48QrShSmkIJ54NiQQS3M_dL0W1Fuwia4Zx7GPfJX4eYlypNBGLyKEJOn3QpdynXUuSjm9gJgZzf89hGcz8kMQ6xurKeziDe3tdL9gGwhg9yFkCATIuVRVsWjCoofvInDtx_MBbB/s1600-h/P1010909.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-48QrShSmkIJ54NiQQS3M_dL0W1Fuwia4Zx7GPfJX4eYlypNBGLyKEJOn3QpdynXUuSjm9gJgZzf89hGcz8kMQ6xurKeziDe3tdL9gGwhg9yFkCATIuVRVsWjCoofvInDtx_MBbB/s320/P1010909.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336455394123843922" /></a><br /><br />We arrived in the late hours of the night/ wee hour of the morning and went straight to bed. A few hours of sleep and I had to get up to pack and catch my flight from Geneva. This was ending a crazy month for me: flying back from Nepal after the Khumbu Climbing School, taking the Level III AIARE course in Silverton, CO, driving back to SLC, down to Vegas for the Red Rocks Rdv (teaching clinics during the day and doing a legal translation at night), dribing to SLC, flying to Switzerland and visiting people/skiing as much as possible. I was on such a go-go-go mode that I failed to see the extreme fatigue symptoms. They all came crashing down on me that last day. The day of my flight. By noon, I could no longer stand up and was suffering from intense pain in my stomach. The doctor diagnosed me with gallbladder issues. As a result, my had to cancel both my flight to SLC and further on to Alaska. <br /><br />I got to do all the things I love and wanted to do, but sometimes, slowing down is the only way to keep going. With these issues, I was forced to rest and be in bed for the first time in ages. it felt really good and made me ready to deal with what was coming up: my AMGA advanced ski course in Valdez, Alaska.... to be followed on my next blog!Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-86452473732182082792009-05-12T18:53:00.000-07:002009-05-15T20:48:26.930-07:00Khumbu Climbing School<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4SdwGYcs7y7dNZUF0lMGryQ0TB0B3DoAp6RO6JkiXmE8QnrQdznyvD2fb2hcYf3zYlJ8pRBEH3zaFMBG_nGkYknW2ee_o4yYsjQHGVT2q4oCQarqT4Legx-7nt1XomtQ5dlGCY6M/s1600-h/P1010453.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4SdwGYcs7y7dNZUF0lMGryQ0TB0B3DoAp6RO6JkiXmE8QnrQdznyvD2fb2hcYf3zYlJ8pRBEH3zaFMBG_nGkYknW2ee_o4yYsjQHGVT2q4oCQarqT4Legx-7nt1XomtQ5dlGCY6M/s320/P1010453.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336259071758221218" border="0"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVG4G2Nr-MxH9JY1vc99FZKm9sal9gd0ck6M0V-BXHpbid4hOwGC6W_W2IuZHZlRxOcQacx_MOseH8zoJoVKqZGtFqdc0hvsDDDhfzH4PaQGh1R_9KIlDdijXSx8WqT6NhR_2dti42/s1600-h/P1010459.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; 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float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNU3Ca4AJVm2zHn4c1Y_-pFcq3kti6YAZ2zCVsWOIl61ktVqE1YOWUmQsNHQeyAio9w9A7wKW9yZwrLBQKOH-ZTVH0JvESXKRmyFJBe5bvgdD6GnhZCVM5igeAk9GETzKgvkEEZRcx/s320/DSC_0469.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336253450565573010" border="0"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivBqVcUBXcFOjc8EQHN7YZR4DuVUUcC2gaojV_677G_yUgoBdS18xBhHI3JWpoD9XZJXitgCv3z7wznF99HBV3fcPbpcEfxgONxNO2VMU3dya3Zokr0t4aMJz2YeKvxEWFOP8UMAcx/s1600-h/DSC_0382.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivBqVcUBXcFOjc8EQHN7YZR4DuVUUcC2gaojV_677G_yUgoBdS18xBhHI3JWpoD9XZJXitgCv3z7wznF99HBV3fcPbpcEfxgONxNO2VMU3dya3Zokr0t4aMJz2YeKvxEWFOP8UMAcx/s320/DSC_0382.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336253444383645858" border="0"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJcFGyu4mUR55g4SyuQYGFehrem1rYFx1SrYmghZrPowTEDtQcVWA6Ffa3BLbCoW1A1q1G9n2TZSVXO6taw7AIlxWuMGuXw58uYd7TfViTZZN_V0FB8W8JbF7SfcsC4kCJJNt0K_f/s1600-h/DSC_1137.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJcFGyu4mUR55g4SyuQYGFehrem1rYFx1SrYmghZrPowTEDtQcVWA6Ffa3BLbCoW1A1q1G9n2TZSVXO6taw7AIlxWuMGuXw58uYd7TfViTZZN_V0FB8W8JbF7SfcsC4kCJJNt0K_f/s320/DSC_1137.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336253440174506386" border="0"></a><br />To read about our experience with the Khumbu Climbing School, please check Part I of III of the story on the new Petzl North America Website: http://petzl.com/us/outdoor/news-2/2009/04/23/khumbu-climbing-schoolCaroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-86116165903547107002009-01-25T13:29:00.000-08:002009-01-25T14:20:11.500-08:00Ouray Ice FestivalEach year, I look forward to the Ouray Ice Festival, in Colorado. Three years ago, I moved to the USA, drove to the Ice Fest and met my husband there. So naturally, this event holds a special place in my heart. It's also a time to see friends again, catch up on the past year, make plans for the new year.It's conforting to check back in with a the nomadic climbing community, share stories, party, climb... and compete!<br /><br />Competing is how I actually started ice climbing. I was hanging out with my ex boyfriend at an ice world cup event in Couchevel, France, when someone suggested i enter the comp. I had never ice climbed before and made a total fool of myself. Yet, something clicked and I was hooked. I spent the following three years competing while attending law school in Switzerland and eventually quit competing for the mountains. Yet, there was one more event I was hoping to attend someday: the Ouray Ice Festival. So, when I moved to the USA, it was only natural that I would take my first ever USA roadtrip to compete there.<br /><br />The scenery was breath-taking: red rock cliffs plastered with ice and snow, a little town straight out of a Western surrounded by dramatic mountains, and in the heart of it all, a deep canyon where hundreds of ice and mixed lines begged to be climbed. I was blownaway. Instantly, I fell in love with the place... and with a man :-)<br /><br />I have attended every event since. This year, it was an invitationnal only event and I was lucky to be invited to compete on my friend Vince Anderson's route. I met Vince almost ten years ago at Festiglace (an ice climbing competition in Quebec)and we have been friends since then. He is local and was the one who inspired me to attend this event in the first place.<br /><br />The route started with a long pitch of steep ice, which we toproped to the start of the rock. From there, the angle of the terrain went from vertical to horizontal. It hurt my neck to look up at the line of free hanging draws and green spots on the rock, pointing out where some of the holds were. The line followed the lip of a steep roof, offering a mix of ice and rock for the tools, but nothing in the ways of feet...at least for someone my height! I resorted to heel hooking (with no spurs...ah the rules!)to relieve my arms. I wasted a lot of energy trying to clip the first bolt but kept going, shaking out on each hold. The pump was insane. My only training for the event had been in my backyard, hanging from tools on the swing in my backyard, doing pull ups and knee raises, and climbing in the park the previous days. Eventually, I reached what would be the last hold for me on this climb, and hung on a while, desperately hoping to make one more move... which didn't happen! Come to find out, the three first - Dawn, Zoe and I - tied on the same hold and time is what broke us apart. Since I hung on the longest, I came in third. I lost sleep over it, imagining that one more move...that one more move that could have made the difference.<br /><br />I am now in Singapore, flying to work for the Khumbu Climbing School (www.alexlowe.org/KCS) and the ice festival is long gone. And so are the results. What remains is this: I got on one of the best mixed route I have ever been on - Heavy Petting is the name of the comp route -, got to share some amazing times with amazing friends, sent a beautiful route - Chinese Water Torture, enjoyed teaching clinics, was inspired by slideshows given by friends and I can't wait to go back next year!Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-19344580901713403132008-12-08T12:10:00.000-08:002008-12-08T12:28:52.473-08:00Bozeman Ice FestivalJust got back from the Bozeman Ice Festival in Montana. What a great event! Check it out @ http://www.montanaalpineguides.com/bozemanicefestival/index.html.<br /><br />Adam and I drove to Bozeman straight from Zion, where I belayed him for his free ascent of Moonlight Buttress (http://mountainproject.com/v/utah/zion_national_park/moonlight_buttress/106138026?highlightphrase=moonlight+buttress&). He really wanted to send it before he turned 30, on December 4th, so needless to say that he did not have much time ahead of him to send. It took him only 3-4 tries to send the whole route, which was lucky, because despite the route being "only" 5hours away, it's still 5 hours away! I was really psyched for him and inspired by his ability to just get it done, so fast!<br /><br />We drove through a snow storm to get to Bozeman and ended up staying at my friend Amy Bullard's house for the night. Together with her husband, she built the most beautiful and cozy house I have ever seen and it was a treat to be there for the night, sleeping by the warm chimney and eating a home made mix of porridge in the morning. <br /><br />The Icebreaker comp started at 7am the following day, in Hylite Canyon. We had been randomly paired the previous day with local women, for the women, and men for the men. I was lucky to climb with the person I was really hoping to climb with: Sarah Hueniken, who I had climbed in Iceland with and guided for Chicks with Picks with. She had the comp the previous year and won and was now considered a local, although she had only climbed there once before! The goal was to climb as many pitches as possible in the day, hitting three of four areas in the canyon. Needless to say, the comp ended up being 70% hiking for 30% walking. I am definitely more into the opposite ratio: 70% cimbing for 30% hiking, if that! But all the same it was really fun... and cold! my lungs were not acclimated to cold temps at the point and I feel that I have been coughing since then. Or maybe it's because I fell into the frozen creek, getting soaked all the way to mid thigh! To win this comp, it's good have a strategy and know that this strategy should include climbing as many short pitches as possible, versus longer routes, which earn less points. Next year, I'll know better. Also, I'll know what to expect more. And I'll try to not have this be the first day of ice climbing of the year for me! Jen Olson and Lilla Molnar - from Canada - won the title, crushing our score! Way to go to both of them!<br /><br />I rushed back to give a slideshow and then taught clinics to women the next day! It was all really fun and met some amazing people. What struck me the most is everyone's kindess and fairness. I look forward to coming back to this event!<br /><br />Thanks to all the organizer and volunteers for me making it happen, and a special thanks to Amy and Jojo for all their hard work!<br /><br />Now, let the temps drop and plaster our local crags with ice!Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-6653516730508800162008-11-19T22:06:00.000-08:002008-11-19T22:35:51.911-08:00To baby or not to be?Women's night. The evening is slowly winding down. A few of us are sitting in the kitchen while another handful of ladies are talking in the living room. Two women come in from the living room and crack up laughing as they hear our conversation. <br /><br />We are all in our early or late thirties. We are mostly all climbers. We are all wondering if having babies is a must. None of us feels the urge; the clock ticking; the intense desire for "that" kind of responsabilities. Yet, we all wonder. We are all nagged by what, at our age, we are expected to do: having babies. <br /><br />We live in a time of choice, where we can have kids or not, we can be women with a job - or not, we can become president of jobs who were men only jobs just yesterday, we can be married or single or divorced and it's no longer stigmatized, we can be gay, straight, bisexual, we can live anywhere we want. <br /><br />But with choices come questions, existentialism, a loss of social status that we need to reinvent on our own. We now need to define who we are, who we want to be, on our own, because we no longer have to obay social structures. But defining oneself is no easy task. What is my role as a women in the world? what is the role of a man in the modern world?<br /><br />At 32, I wonder. Deeply. I went to law school, knowing that law "wasn't my thing", but I decided to push through and finish. I did. Later, I started going through the mountain guide certification . I love the mountains. I love people. I will finish my certification. Yet, I need to be fulfilled both physically - my guiding and climbing life - and intellectually. I need the latter to be motivated in the physical realm. I need to find a balance between the two to be fulfilled. Yet, at 32, I wonder what it is going to take to satisfy my intellect: going back to school is stimulating, yet, how much sense does it make, when I am at the age when women should be thinking about having children. Shouldn't I be just having kids? but to have kids I need to be making money, and to make money I need to be going back to school. And all the while, I want to climb, climb and climb. And I still feel no urge to have kids. But I feel like I should be wanting to have them. And sometimes, I feel that I want them, because I feel it would bring an easy answer to the turmoil of life questions. <br /><br />As Emery said tonight, you can't have kids to find fulfilment in your life. You need to find fulfillment within you first. But what is fulfillment: is it being where you are socially expected to be at? is it being successful in your job? is it having babies? or is it having defined what you expect yourself to be and being just that? or maybe, it's just being satisfied with what you have right now...<br /><br />I wonder....Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8199283335998371832.post-34887509811308359232008-11-04T10:07:00.000-08:002008-11-04T15:13:20.439-08:00Tolerance in the time of elections?The elections are taking place today and I can barely stand still. I have lost sleep over it. I am just as antsy and excited as I was twenty years ago, waiting to open my presents over Christmas. The tension is high everywhere. I have never seen so many people stand up for what they believe in: people express their opinion by putting up signs in their front lawns; friends are sending text messages as a reminder to vote; some Facebook members have given their status away to remind the world to vote, others – from countries around the world – are urging us Americans to vote; parties and celebration are being organized to celebrate Obama, because who could imagine that anyone else would get elected? Even my yoga teacher has made the elections a part of her class opening speech. Yesterday, in class, she was talking about how she has butterflies in her belly, because she is so worried about the election outcome. I, myself, have been loosing sleep over it. I am frightened by Sarah Palin’s appalling lack of experience in every issue this country is dealing with and in her inability to actually build a proper sentence! She is not fit to be the VP of one of the most powerful nation in the world! <br /><br />I live a sheltered life, within a community who will vote for Obama because that community – the outdoor community – is sick of this useless war, worries about the environment, about health care, women’s right, and much more. A few days ago though, I was exposed to people who have different views of this country’s future. And, although I had never voted before and thought that I had no political opinion, I felt personally attacked that anyone could even envision voting for McCain, especially since he chose Palin as his VP – an illiterate, uneducated, unworldly, contradictory women who is against women’s rights, on top of it all! It is scary that this woman could one day be the president of the most powerful nation on earth.<br /><br />Again at yoga though, that same teacher expressed that right now is a great time to practice tolerance. She said that, but I could see how hard it was for her too to put that in practice. How can one be tolerant when your own values and ethics are at stake? When everything you believe in has been trashed for the past 8 years and there is now hope to remedy to what Bush has done to this country? I love this country and I feel that I know what is best for it. Much like the rest of the people surrounding me. But truth is, everything is relative, and people voting for the other party are probably feeling just as cheated by me as I am by them. <br /><br />In the light of this perspective, I realized that my intolerance of other’s views of politics is the same intolerance leading to wars, leading to people voting to protect their own little comforts, leading to people being afraid of change, and therefore leading people to vote McCain / Palin. This perspective has helped accept that not everyone will vote Obama today and be somewhat OK with it. We can agree to disagree. <br /><br />As a friend just wrote to me: <br /><br />“It will be what it will be (the election that is)... nothing to worry about. Barak by a landslide :-)<br /> <br />And, if I'm wrong, which is often the case, McCain is an okay guy. He means well for the most part. If for some reason Palin ended up in the driver's seat, impeachment is always a handy tool that is possible. <br /> <br />And, if things become incredibly unbearable, Canada has great climbing!”<br /><br />But let’s hope that we don’t have to move. Let’s hope that everyone votes. Let’s hope there will be no cheating this time. Let’s hope that people vote for freedom. The real freedom: that which is not imposed by fear and war. Vote for change! Vote OBAMA!Caroline George Home is the Roadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01952678075937291609noreply@blogger.com1